12.8.2020

Before getting in to this, I will preface this review by saying I actually ordered an Arctic Freezer 13. This was because I'd recently switched from an R5-2600X to an i5-10600K and wanted something that could handle the higher TDP of the chip at 125W. While the Freezer 13 has a rated TDP of 200+ watt, the i13X only has a TDP of 120 watt. I actually bought this as an intermediary while I'm waiting for the Lian Li Galahad to be released in the UK, and didn't actually notice I had received the wrong cooler from Amazon until I popped on to write this review - just in case you're wondering why this isn't an Amazon verified purchase review.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------The Good----------So,as a cooler i had bought as a cheap holdover for a 10600k until a new AIO I've preordered gets released, I'm actually very impressed by this. For the money I would recommend a Freezer eSports 34 however I went for the 13/i13X due to case clearance - with a total height of 157mm the eSports 34 ends up pushing the side panel of a Lian li O11D.Performance wise, the i13x, despite being 5w under the recommended TDP for a 10600K is actually performing very well - with default clocks @4.1GHz (4.5GHz boost), in an ambient environment of 27°, with 3 120mm intake and one exhaust on the chassis running at about 40%, the cooler is able to maintain idle temps of 37° at 20% fan load. Even better, the fan on the i13x has very little noise difference between 20% and 100% load, so running the fan at a constant 100% does not create (IMO) any obtrusive noise, but runs idle temps at 34° with a 27° ambient.Using Prime95, the CPU recorded a temperature peak of 83° with a stable load of 77°. Once stable load temps had been recorded I shut off the test, and the temp dropped immediately to 48°, then slowly dropped back down to 34° over the space of around 3 minutes. For a cooler rated for a TDP of 120, I'm actually quite impressed.----------The Bad----------Now, my main issue with the cooler is the mounting bracket. I mounted this on a Z490 Steel Legend motherboard. This motherboard features m.2 heat shields for thermal dissipation, one of which is under the socket and about level with the bottom of the IO shield. Because the mounting bracket for this cooler is to accommodate older intel sockets too, the brackets are longer than they need to be for a 1200 socket. This means that to get this to fit, I actually had to remove the m.2 heat shield in the middle of the board, and run one of my m.2 drives bare. This doesn't cause any issues where the drives will get too hot in normal use, but looking at HWMonitor as I write this, I can see that the m.2 drive (an identical Sabrent Rocket to the one under the heatshield further down the board) is running 2° warmer to the one under the shield. Obviously being able to mount the shield would be preferred, but not performance-threatening, at worst, it ruins some of the look of the board.Finally, my other concern with the cooler is the sheer difficulty involved in mounting. I've never built an intel system before this one, and I was worried for how much pressure the cooler wants you to apply to get it to mount. At multiple stages I had to keep reminding myself that this was compatible for the socket, due to the sheer amount of brute force needed to get both screws on the coldplate to mount to the bracket. I am no stranger to mounting coolers, not even Arctic coolers, but this had me sweating for a POST in the hopes I hadn't just crushed or cracked the IHS or the die. I'm not sure if there are height differences between LGA115X and 1200, but at least be prepared to call for a second pair of hands to get this mounted on a 1200 socket.----------Summary----------For a basic cooler, this is pretty good for the money. If your case can accommodate the height of the cooler, I would recommend the Freezer eSports Duo for a tenner more. For the price, I wasn't particularly expecting much and that kind of exemplified a little with the difficulty involved in mounting the damn thing and the size of the mounting brackets but the performance, especially in the middle of summer where the idle temps are only around 7° above ambient, has impressed to no end. For comparison, on my 2600X before swapping over to an Intel chip I was running a Deepcool Castle 360 AIO which got exponentially worse the higher the ambient temps got, would idle at around 40° in an ambient of 26°. Hell, if the ambient hit 30° then the CPU would idle at 50° - which I can only attribute to the radiators inability to shift heat from the liquid once ambient reaches a certain temperature.If you're looking for a budget air cooler for intel CPU's, I couldn't not recommend it. Decent performance, in a compact and quiet package at an affordable price point. Once my Galahad arrives, I'll be retiring this, but rather than flogging on I'll be keeping it as a backup for if I ever have need of it.

13.6.2015

Reading the reviews and having a weird HP mobo that has AMD3+ 970 chip but has Intel 1150 screw holes (yup thats right) I decided to try this one out as the plastic bracket that bolts/screws down to the mobo looked to be the correct size/pattern. My mobo holes were in the middle of the three choices on the bracket. Had to scrounge for the four M3 screws as they didn't come with the kit. You're supplied with two for attaching the metal bracket to the plastic bracket and two for OEM AMD brackets. Luckily I had some HDD screws that were the same thread and are used to attach the drives to the frame or 'cartridge' carrier, you know the little pidgeon slots that they slide into and attach along the sides to hold 'em in place.On my mobo the cooler would only mount in one direction due to large (corsair vengence) RAM cards and the space from the cpu so I had to turn it to run parrallel with the memory cards. With the fan housing protruding as it does it couldn't face the memory card and had to face the exhaust fan. That left me with two fans facing each other pulling in opposite directions. Not knowing how to reverse the polarity on the cooler fan I just turned the rear exhaust fan around to where both fans are flowing in the same direction. That said I noticed the cooler fan stopped turning as the case fan was now blowing air on the cooler and the reported cpu temp is showing ambient temps (low 20's). On the first installation I was extremely leery ( like Timothys brother) and didn't dare over-tighten them. Well I put it under load and noticed the temps weren't any better than the stock cooler (very close to 70 the Tj.Max). I re-thought everything and decided to put a do-it-yourself stiff paper shroud around the fan housing to channel air better and while putting it back in realized I didn't really tighten the two sides down enough the first go 'round. The first time they 'felt' tight but were riding on the bracket and not seating completely thus I'm sure was helping cause the high temps. Also I went ahead and went with Artic Silver 5 that I had on hand (using the pea method). Putting it back and in under load (think BF4) it never got over the low 50's. I did also notice that once under load the fan went back to running again and when it cooled off (very fast btw) at idle it shut off so I think that is just the way the fan is. Not like the OEM which spins at idle. Might be wrong but don't think so because evey time I put it under load and away from idle the fan starts spinning, rather discerning but maybe the nature of the beast.It really when installed correctly and in my case with a little thought about placement (fan wise) make a difference, it dropped my temps 20 degress under load and you can't really ask more than that. As far as the plastic bracket being a weak sister I just filled the underside up with epoxy glue before installing to take the worry out of that issue as I have friends that have those snap on 'em and I'm talking about the OEM from the mobo/AMD manufacturer and also the ones you buy as replacements. Don't know why they don't make those out of better material like solid nylon but folks like to cut corners to get those bonuses ya know. I have a micro-ATX board on a small-ish mid tower and it does fit but only in one direction, with a slightly better fan design it could've mounted to match the exhaust flow which this case was designed for (from front to back) reversing the exhause makes the psu run a tad hotter.Knocked off one star for not supplying enough screws, remember my OEM heatsink screws into the mobo and doesn't use those push down twist deals like regular Intels' do instead it has four threaded holes thus needing those screws. Also the way the fan shroud is made it doesn't channel air as good as it could thus the paper shroud. Plus the fan design doesn't allow for reversing the flow, also the fan housing itself seemingly could be made to be more 'flush mount' and not protrude half again as the size of the heatsink.Overall this is a well made heatsink and not too many have solid copper bases that meet the cpu face, which is a plus, too many have the copper tubes flattened out running along that face that can cause uneven heat dissapation with those gaps. For the price thats asked and the quality of the product you'd be hard pressed to find a better deal. Recommend.

30.11.2013

Yes, yet Another DEAD FAN!For all of you out there worrying about dead fans, read on.I installed my cooler several days ago. The fan spun no more than a second and stopped. I figured that I would wait until the temperatures got higher, because I thought I had read somewhere that the fan does not come on right away. The temperatures quickly reached 81 degrees Celsius. TJ. Max on an i5 processor is only 99 degrees, so I shut the system down.I plugged in the original OEM fan and it spun right up. I also checked it with another fan and I had on the shelf, and it spun right up!I proceeded to place the original OEM fan on the floor of the computer so that it would blow some cool air over the coolingfins and that lowered the temperatures by 40 degrees Celsius!I spent the next hour or two researching replacement fans. I wanted to find one that could be installed without removing the motherboard, mainly because there is a steel plate very close to my motherboard.I decided on a Cool Master Hyper TX 3 and then decided the TX for model was a closer replacement because it has more cooling pipes, just like this one. I then wanted to find out which company had the the sixpence of replacement fan and wanted to see if it was readily available, because I had read more than one story about a failing fan.While doing this research, I stumbled across a website at notmybase.com/?p=56.He (she?) talked about a failed fan, but then went on to say that quite often the fan is not snapped onto the shaft correctly. He said the push down on the fan blade firmly, until you hear a loud click. At first, pushed on the fan blade but obviously not hard enough. I pushed a little harder while holding the whole assembly in my hand, and voilà, I heard a click!I proceeded to plug the fan back into my motherboard and it immediately started spending!It APPEARED to be defective initially because it WOULD turn momentarily and then stop. My old fan and another fan both worked, verifying there was a good power source.This website saved me a LOT of grief!!Many other websites and forums talked about checking the wiring, making sure it was plugged in correctly, checking the BIOS settings, so forth and so on. It turned out to be so simple!If you are having problems with a fan like mine, simply make sure the fan is secure on the shaft. I imagine the fan appeared to move a little bit, for a brief moment, because there is enough friction between the shaft in the blade to make it spin.Many thanks to the folks who put up the webpage at [...]As other people have said, this easily lowered my temperatures by 20 degrees Celsius. It is also very quiet.I can now put my a computer back in my – behind a closed door, and not have to worry!Installation:Well worth the money and the super easy installation! I don't understand why so many people say it is hard; hard on their fingers, hard to push the pins in in all kinds of nonsense.I simply put the white pins in place, in the black cradle, before putting the black cradle over the processor. That way I did not have to fiddle with it later trying to get the pins in place correctly or have to use long needle nose pliers.I simply push the pins down through the proper holes. (Mine were in the center hole being and they 1156 socket). The black pins simply slid into the white pins, and they can only go one way, and are guided in by slots. It was very easy to push the pins down, locking the whole assembly in place.This whole process took 15 minutes or less, from start to finish.In no way are these plastic pins cheap or flimsy, like other people have said.I am extremely happy now that I have the fan problem resolved!!

15.5.2010

I bought this cooler for my AMD Phenom IIX4 965 BE 3.4ghz mainly because the stock cooler at full load is very loud. I had to use headphones when gaming to block out the high speed whirring of the fan. Installation was a little tricky but not difficult. Like it has been previously said when attaching the two metal plates to the heatsink attach them loosely before you put the heatsink onto the cpu. Attaching them loosely means you have to put less pressure onto them when attaching them to the cpu plastic surround and with a few turns of a screwdriver they fix the heatsink solidly to the plastic surround. As also said in a review about this cooler you may find it a little tricky to clip the fan onto the heatsink this is down to motherboard and memory type.I can't comment for all motherboards but the tricky ones are Gigabyte's MA770x xxxx and the MA790x xxxx models. Memory slot 1 is very close to the cpu on these boards. If you only have 2 sticks of memory you can move them to slots 3 & 4 and this problem can be avoided. If you have 3 or 4 sticks, like myself, then you'll find that depending on your memory the fan will either be touching the memory stick in slot 1 or worst case won't go on. I am using Corsair 13333 memory which only has a sticker covering the memory chips so in my case the fan is smack up to the memory stick. If your memory has plastic covers then you'll find the fan won't fit onto the heatsink because the plastic cover will block it. Like I said this is only if you have to use memory slot 1. Somebody asked me "I have 3 sticks of memory so can I use slots 2, 3 and 4?" No you can't. Memory slots are divided into 2 banks. Bank 1 are slots 1&2, bank 2 are slots 3&4. If you only have 1 stick to put into a bank then it has to go in either bank 1 slot 1 or bank 2 slot 1 (which is slot 3).So how are my temps now? Using the stock cooler I was getting 35-37c idle and 54-57 at full load. With this cooler I am getting the exact same temp. at idle and full load has gone up to 54-60c. I used `Core Temp' to monitor the temps. So an increase in temp. at full load. I can handle the small temp. increase even though this doesn't look good for the cooler's reputation but what is important for me is that it's quiet, very quiet at full load. Doesn't mean you can't hear it, you can, but the larger fan spins slower to achieve almost the same temp. results as the stock cooler without the high speed whirring. Another advantage is the air flow direction. This cooler can only be fitted in a down > up air flow direction (the original version of this cooler, not this Rev.2, can be fitted in a up > down or front > back air flow direction), meaning the exhaust air will blow onto your psu. This effectively cools your psu in the process and if like me you have a psu that has its fan on the bottom then this is doubly effective as the exhaust air flows directly into the psu casing and then out of the back of the psu. The fan is also close to the graphics card this means that it draws air over the circuitry of the card, another cooling affect.I haven't over-clocked my cpu so I can't comment on performance above stock speed.One modification I had to make to my case was to remove the plastic funnelling that directed air flow out of the side of the case from the side panel otherwise the panel would not go on and besides it is obsolete with this cooler.All in all a good cooler. Don't expect a massive heat drop unless you're having huge temp. readings with your existing cooler. Expect a quieter system which was all I wanted. Time to put the headphones away.

27.1.2013

First impressions were that it was quite large and the heat sink had a weight to it. As I only has a small motherboard AsRock 760GM-GS3, I had to remove one of the RAM cards so my system is still 64 bit but not 8 GB but 4 GB. Then I put the stock cooler back in to test if it will work, and it did work with 4GB RAM.It is interesting to note that if you start a computer with no heatsink, leaving the processor naked - the temperature of the processor will increase so much that the CPU will not boot.First time I have done this and a I have an AMD 3 Socket. I put the screws in the flaps first, then tried without being able to fit it in - kept hitting the processor with this 500 gram thing thinking I had broken something,so then I bent the heatsink panels and it was too loose, then I took it off and bent the heatsink panels again - put some new thermal paste Arctic Silver 5, which means I do not have to do all this again in 6 months as with the MK II default paste which I wiped off, then it worked when I heard that click, not too loud or too quiet. It is a weighty thing for 2 plastic clips - no wonder stock coolers are used, it is less of a risk when delivering the box to hell knows where.I also have 2 other exhaust fans 120mm one at the back and one which is loose and unscrewed sitting on the floor below the motherboard, or fatherboard as they call it in Germany.For a 3.2 Processor running at about 3.18, with PCI Express frequency over-clocked to 104 (this will turn your CPU into a high-end Blu-Ray player or a PCI express 2.0 Nvidia card run like 3.0 card putting it bluntly).I was really amazed by the transparency of colours of the Blu-Ray which would expect from a more high end graphics card than a GeForce GTS 450 1GB.Conclude:The temperature of the motherboard was mid twenties because of a chasis fan so that was not a problem. The temperature of the CPU would sometimes go over 50C at idle with the stock cooler. Especially because the heating had been fixed and the room was always too hot, so I opened the windows as it is an air cooler - it can only work if the air in the room is cool. Then I tried it with fingers crossed: the CPU temperature started falling gradually to 35C at idle.Last thoughts:Cuda may actually work now without the CPU over-heating and switching off at above 65C. I have also updated my ASROCK motherboard to 1.2. I would be a bit worried about moving the desktop because of the size and weight of the cooler with a loose 120mm fan in the case. Arctic Cooling 5 does thin out on the initial use and then it takes 50 to 200 hours to thicken. Time will tell....UPDATEThe thermal paste is starting to work after 2 days. Also the fan is running at 5650 revolutions which it was not before so CPU temp is 25 C MB temp 24 C. Cannot control speed of fan - but I have over-clocked to 3.6 with a 3.2 CPU with lowered voltages.UPDATE 2Voltages have been set to default because of stability issues. 2 120mm fans will consume voltage. The super increase in fan speed led to 25 C even with load - but it appears to be a random event (an anomaly) maybe a power surge but the asROCK can deal with it. Re-positioned 1 fan towards the front so it will blow sorry suck air in. Though the case has nothing designed for a frontal fan, instead of buying another case I tied it sideways with wires where the screws go in. Looks much better too inside, and it will be easier to move.

19.1.2012

I bought this to replace the stock cooler on my Intel E5800 DC CPU which only had a 3 pin connector on the fan but I needed a 4 pin cooler to be able to utilise the PWM facility on my motherboard. The old stock cooler was therefore running at max (2800rpm) which made it very loud.I ordered this through Amazon and it arrived well packaged a day earlier than scheduled which was a pleasant surprise. I opened the jiffy bag and then realised this was a MONSTER! 'I hope this bad boy fits' I thought to myself! Before I go on with the review, I found the video from 'Mr Reviewer' exceptionally useful and played it through my laptop as I went through the installation process.The only thing slightly different from the video were the locking pins for the mobo connector; mine were the same ones as shown in the photographs and to be honest they were easier to fit than the video versions by the looks of things. Be sure to also take the fan off when installing as this helps alot. It clicks off easy enough and goes back without a snag.I got this cooler fitted in about 30 minutes which included cleaning the previous thermal paste from my CPU (this cooler comes with pre-applied paste). Once I had the PC closed and wired up I pressed the power on button on my PC and then proceeded to BIOS. I was somewhat alarmed to find that the BIOS was showing the CPU at zero! I initially looked into the case and saw the fan blades fluttering and stuttering but not really turning. I thought it may have something to do with the PWM settings on my mobo so I disabled it (all the time I was conscious of the CPU temp creeping up). Still showing at zero!!! Pressed the power off button and reopened the case (earthing myself prior to that I hasten to add). I disconnected the fan connector from the mobo and unclipped the fan from the heatsink just to check that the blades could turn which they could do freely. It must have been a poorly fitted fan connector as when I reconnected and pressed power on the fan kicked into life and the BIOS told me it was spinning. I reactivated the PWM facility and set it up accordingly. The fan runs quiet even at full speed which is what I wanted as I play online games with this PC. My CPU temps are steady idle at 35C whilst pushing to 45C under load; impressive. They will probably drop further as the thermal paste beds in.In summary, be patient with the setup of this beast and definitely use the video to help you if you are uncertain. Take the time to remove the old thermal paste from your CPU as it is not recommended to have too much paste plus you dont want a mixture. The Cooler does the job and cools well and so it should for it's size! Works well with the PWM tool as it has a 4 pin fan connector. Only time will tell if this continues to do the same job but for under £15 delivered you cannot go wrong in my opinion. I still give it 5 stars as I think the shaky start was down to my sausage fingers as opposed to a fault with the fan!

9.7.2012

Compared to the stock cooler it replaced, this thing is a beast. It comprises a large heatsink, which appears to be an aluminium alloy and, unlike the stock one, is not in direct contact with the processor. Instead, copper heat pipes channel heat from the CPU into the heatsink. A fan is attached to the side of the heatsink by vibration absorbing rubber pins.The first thing to mention is that the instructions are not great. It's an annoying 21st century trend to provide pictures but no text. The first picture, marked "preparation", appears to indicate removing the fan from the heatsink. You have to remove the whole black plastic assembly here. It's quite simple,but if you misunderstand and think it's saying to remove the fan *from* the assembly, you'll find that's quite difficult to do. If you then manage to break one of the mounting pins after realising your mistake, good luck with your creative solutions to the problem.After that, the pictures continue with the method for fitting to an Intel CPU. There's a black mounting bracket and a bag of plastic bits which you have to assemble. If (like me) you have an AMD system, you need to turn over the paper. It looks like a simple enough procedure, but it involves a couple of fiddly brackets with little screws. The guide suggests you have to leave them loose, fit the thing to the processor, and then tighten once it's in place. I was completely unable to get it fitted that way. I thought I'd managed it, but it turns out the computer's not very happy running at 115°C. Eventually I resorted to pre-tightening the screws and using a pair of pliers to flex the brackets into position.Now came the next problem: space. In my case there is barely enough headroom for a side fan. It does fit, but we're talking a couple of millimetres clearance from the fan blades, and no clearance from its housing. To complicate matters, I have one of those cases where you slide a side off to get in, and the fan is mounted on that side. The side fan and the top of the heat pipes interlock when closed. The case can be closed/opened if I get it at just the right angle, and once closed the fan spins just fine. It was cutting it very close though! If you don't have a huge case, remember to take into account the protruding heat pipes.As for efficiency? I gave the thermal paste some time to do its thing, and then stress tested the Athlon X2 by running both cores at 100% for about 18 hours (Handbrake is wonderful for that). The temperature never got above 49°C. I'd call that a success. Running at full speed the fan is audible, but it's still less noisy than the one it replaced. And as it's PWM controlled, a more typical usage pattern should be much quieter.So I'd give 5 stars for performance and price, but the installation difficulty lets it down.

9.2.2017

I am using this cooler in a tight space configuration because it is on an ITX board. I have a silent power supply and an HFA 915f case. I am a long time hacker and all my computers must run at a very high level of stability. At present and over the course of the day I have no less than 60 windows opened.The design of the Arctic Freezer 7 pro is robust. Its seats easily on my AMD platform. The fit for memory sticks is tight. Metal jackets on sticks must be removed in my case. Then they fit. All memory slots are full. The cages that hold the fan in place has rubber vibration mounts to isolate it from the heat sink. Some people would call that cheapo but they must be delicate because the fan vibrations would be measured in very small energy units.Don't break the clip.It comes with a four prong plug so the bios fan controls can adjust the speed as variable. In my case I adjust it to quiet. My cpu an AMD 2+ runs at a cool 41 degrees.As for quiet, anything beats the buzzbomb stock AMD fans. So from that perspective it s a big improvement, though to be sure you can hear the fan. Previously I had a passive cooler in the device that worked fine until the fins became oxidized. In ITX boards the CPU heat is not generally as troublesome as the onboard graphics chip. The graphic heat sink is too hot to touch for but a second. The heat at the base of the cpu due to this graphic chip caused the original AMD plastic mount to become brittle and fracture. Thus the CPU fan is forced to deal with the heat off that graphics chip heatsink. Most of the problems with cooling come from dumb board design. Each cpu cooler is faced with an array of other issue not simply CPU cooling.A gamer on the other hand is listening to so much headbanger noise that a fan sounding like a chain saw is fine as long as it cools the melting lava pouring out of their overclocked cpu. I use my machines for productive enterprises. I use hot swap drives and have 50 different hard drives with various operating systems used for very selective purposes. Some are for broadcast servers, media servers and streamers, cad, mathematics, and other uses. This fan keeps the hardware preforming smoothly. Nothing is less fun than heat induced errors and lock ups.If you are a power used like me with a slightly aged computer that still performs well then this fan is all you will need. My computers are on 24/7, I have identical clones of every machine so I can recover instantly from catastrophic disruption no matter how severe in minutes. So I have two of these fans. The only reason I did not give it a 5 star rating is because my definition of silent is soundless. I have solid state drives, fanless power supplies and I don't want to hear a CPU fan at all. This one I hear.

21.3.2013

So far so good. I installed it an hour ago and have yet to hear my CPU fan spool up.Four years ago I bought a Dell Studio XPS 435MT, an infamously noisy desktop. That first time I turned it on sounded like a jet was taking off in my house. I replaced the case fan (which was the culprit, per Dell) and the noise level went down considerably. Still, from time to time it would get a bit loud and that was due to the CPU fan, especially when under load.I finally decided to get a new fan, coinciding with an upgrade to SSD. I like that this new fan is considerably bigger than the previous one and the fins feel cooler to the touch (which means they are a better conductor of heat and can thus dissipate heat better).

12.1.2012

I recently acquired, Battlefield 3, and S.T.A.L.K.E.R Call of Pripyat (with Complete 2012 mod installed for higher visuals) , 2 very graphic intensive games. Both games take their toll on both the cpu and gpu.I have an Intel Q6600 Quad Core @ 2.4 ghz, with a EVGA GTX 570 1.5G, 8 G of DDR-2 RAM, Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit. Not the best build, but nonetheless has ran both game fine on the highest settings. My case is a Xeon Mid size case (not the best cooling case).When I started monitoring the temps on the CPU, using Core Temp and Speed Fan (just to have the 2nd opinion), I noticed that at idle , my pc was running at 40-50 degree celsius. On full load with Either Battlefield 3 or Pripyat,

20.7.2016

PAID :: $24.29 (AMD Wraith owners = Check my update at bottom before buying!)PURPOSE :: Keep my AMD 8370 Black Cool via FAN/HEATSINK (Replacing a 'noisy' BLACK Edition AMD FX OEM Cooler/Heatsink)RESULTS :: It's nearly perfect for my rig. Installed without removing the Motherboard in few seconds. AMD's get the EASY install, but INTEL install is not much tougher. NEW installed was keeping my 8 cores under 70% load at a SOLID 38 celsius. After a few weeks of dust (I have carpeted floors) it hold it to 50 Celsius. I am ok with that since its Summer time in Southern California, might be an issue in an office over 85 degree Fahrenheit.CONS :: Like the EVO 212,

13.9.2011

There are many reviews currently in circulation which all say different things (either this is really difficult/really easy to install, or it doesnt work/works great etc) so I thought I would give a detailed review of my setup and fan performance to help out anyone who was like me and thought buying this product is a 50/50 gamble.First of all my original setup: A Phenom II X4 955 BE with stock cooler, a front bottom 120mm intake fan, a 120mm rear top exhaust fa, and a PSU with 2x80mm fans drawing hot air out the case at the top. I overclocked my CPU to 4GHz, 1.4V and idle temps were about 40C in ambient temp 23C. Under load they reached 64C in the same ambient temp after 20mins of Prime95.

11.11.2009

Pros:+ Amazing cooling ability+ Inexpensive (as of the date of my review)+ There is little to no fan noise+ Removing the motherboard is not required to install+ Includes mounting hardware for the supported Intel or AMD processors+ 6 Year Warranty+ One of the easiest heatsinks I've ever installed (which includes Intel, AMD, and some other after-market heatsinks)Cons:- May not fit in thin cases- The instructions are poorly written/illustratedDetailed review:I did my research and decided to buy this to replace the stock heatsink/fan that came with my Core 2 Duo 2.4Ghz processor.It was relatively easy to install, much easier than the stock heatsink. I did not have to remove the motherboard,

15.8.2015

Here is my review of the ARTIC Freezer Pro Rev 2. Like most of the reviews have said, this is a quiet and efficient after market cooler. The biggest thing being fan noise, compared to the stock fan the noise is non-existent.I had a AMD socket 3 motherboard that I was installing on, and I cannot say it did not go without a hitch. I already had my motherboard installed, so I had to do it within a tight space, and actually had my wife assist as she has smaller hands. The instruction with this fan cooler are awful, a double sided sheet of paper with just poor pictorials. I am going to give a step by step install (This is for AMD only).1. Have a long shaft Phillips screwdriver, save yourself time,

2.2.2010

This product gets high marks from me.Installation:- Took less than 15 minutes. It's as simple as this: remove the stock heat sink and fan, use appropriate mounting hardware for Intel or AMD products (both are included in package), seat the heat sink onto the processor, tighten TWO screws, attach the fan and plug it in, close the case and get back to work/games.- Important thing: When you are seating the heat sink onto the processor there are two things to be sure of. First: wipe off any bonding residue from the processor that might have been there from the previous heat sink. Make sure it's absolutely clean.

Arctic Alpine 11 Rev. 2 (UCACO-AP110-GBB01) - Reviews

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