Hoya Pro ND 32 58mm - Reviews

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16.12.2018

Review of Hoya ProND1000 Neutral density filter:- Hoya ProND1000 is a 10 stop filter. I measure 10.3 stops in the green channel- Hoya ProND1000 is *extremely* color-neutral: A very small red cast is measurable, but not visually obvious (more below).- No discernible Infra-Red leakage / IR pollution.- Typical, decent quality aluminium frame.- Good price for performance.Safety: This is NOT a filter for photographing the sun.==========================================- If you want to photograph the sun, use only a filter designed and certified for photographing the sun.- Solar filters have heavy IR and UV reduction, as well as high attenuation of visible light,to prevent damage to eyes or equipment.- Contact your local astronomy society, or university astronomy department for advice.Colour:======I've attached images of a ColorChecker chart, with:1) Hoya ProND1000 filter2) No filter3) SRB ND1000 filter- These were all taken with a fixed "UniWB" white balance, which gives all images a strong green cast (the point of this weird white balance is to make it easier to check RAW exposure).- The filtered images were taken at 6", f/4. The unfiltered image was taken at 1/200 ", f/4.- The loss of focus in the filtered images is down to my sloppy technique with an extending zoom lens, the short object distance to the colour chart (~0.6m), and the wide-ish aperture (f/4). The lack of sharpness should not be attributed to the filters.The Hoya ProND 1000 is very neutral. Under Halogen lighting, I measure a very small red cast: Red up by 1.5%; Blue down by 0.25% (relative to green). The measured cast varies a little with lighting. If you are worried about this level of color cast, you should also be worrying about the color casts introduced by changing lenses. These shifts were measured on Nikon D7200 using RAW - i.e. linear light - data extracted using RawDigger.In comparison, It's quite clear that the SRB ND1000 has a blue cast. On the Nikon D7200 I used, Blue is up by about +20%, Red is down by about 30%. But the color shifts are fairly even across the different patches, so white balancing, either by setting a custom WB in the camera with the filter attached, or by adjusting the color temperature in RAW processing. The SRB has just a little difficulty with the lime-green patch on the third row, which is (relative to other patches) shifted slightly to yellow.The colour shifts quoted were measured under halogen lighting. I get similar results under high-quality (CRI Ra 98; CQS 95) LED lighting [Philips ExpertColor 4000K].Construction:=============Decent aluminium construction. Brass, with a knurled ring for better grip would be ideal (Like Breakthrough Technology X4 filters).Sharpness & visual artefacts:=============================I have seen images ProND1000 images with halo artefacts perhaps related to reflections between sensor and filter. On Nikon D7200, I haven't been able to reproduce such artefacts: I've tried photographing lights, shining a torch at the filter out of frame.I've also seen reports of sharpness problems with the Hoya. But pixel-peeking with and without the filter shows *I*'m getting very sharp images, with no significant loss of detail, even inspecting images at 200%.I'm not aware of vignetting problems, except with Nikon 10-24 at 10mm at the extreme (<100 pixels) frame corners, which are down ~1/3 EV - seems like filter ring shading.I'm mostly using the Hoya with Nikon D7200 and Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS, at near 50mm and f/5-f/8.Usage:=====- Autofocus may - or may not - be possible with a 10-stop filter fitted to your camera, depending on your camera, and available light. Some experimentation with live-view autofocus, and, for DSLRs, with TTL phase-detect auto-focus, is required. TTL phase-detect auto-focus may work well, but the problem is it may be hard-to-impossible to see what you are focussing on, because of the dark viewfinder relative to your environment.- A typical technique is to focus the camera without the filter, either manually, or with autofocus, and then attach the filter. Some care is required, particularly with extending zoom lenses, not to upset focus. Plate filters in a filter holder are better in this respect. There is a small focus shift on adding a filter, but negligible except for macro photography: the focus point will shift away from the camera by roughly 1/3 of the thickness of the filter glass - typically less than 1mm.- Possible difficulties in focussing suggest the use of small (ish) apertures to ensure adequate sharpness: say f/11 (full-frame); f/8 (APS-C); f/5.6 (Four Thirds). Significantly smaller apertures (higher f-numbers) will cause a loss of sharpness due to diffraction.- On SLRs, use the viewfinder blanking plate to prevent stray light entering the camera via the viewfinder. With a 10-stop filter, not much stray light needs to enter the camera to ruin a photograph. If you've lost the one that came with your camera, inexpensive 3rd-party replacements are available for popular camera models. On some camera models, you may get away without the blanking plate. I have tried and failed to provoke my D7200 to misbehave when using a 10-stop filter - for example by shining a 1.5W single-LED torch into the viewfinder.- Fitting *any* filter increases the likelihood of ghosting and flaring: Use a lens hood or matte-box to shade the filter and lens from stray light.Alternatives:=============SRB ND1000: Moderate, correctable, blue cast; similar construction; half the price (roughly).Breakthrough Technology X4 Neutral Density 3.0: [I haven't tried this] Fairly neutral; low vignetting; Excellent construction; double the price (at least).

13.5.2016

The filter is well packaged and protected, the packaging is comes in is adequate to keep it in if you don't have anything better, although personally I prefer rigid plastic cases that are designed for storing filters in like the Nikon one I have in the picture. The filter itself is made from metal and glass unlike cheaper alternatives, and seems excellent quality. Its easy to screw on and off my lens and other filters.This is exactly what I needed, this enables me to make 30 second exposures in bright midday sun in a cloudless sky. I shoot in shutter priority mode with it, selecting the length of exposure I desire and letting the camera set the aperture. I shoot at a permanent ISO 100 unless its low light to minimise noise,which is important in long exposures. Most cameras have a dedicated long exposure noise reduction feature which is worth remembering to turn on before you do any.I also recommend setting your lens to manual focussing once you have focussed, as your camera will struggle to focus through the filter as it's so dark. It's also worth mentioning that a good technique is to set up your shot, compose, focus, switch to manual, cover your viewfinder and then put on the ND filter as with some cameras it's almost impossible to see what's going on the LCD with this filter on. On my Nikon, I find that if I switch to auto mode (no flash) and take a quick snap, the camera adjusts the LCD so that you can compose with the filter on, but I'm not sure if that would work with all cameras, and if your space is precious on your memory card, you don't want to waste shots every time you want to recompose.Before I purchased this I brought a cheap kit of Polaroid brand ND filters, they were terrible and left odd rainbow marks all over my images and really effected the sharpness of my images, even whilst using a tripod. They were terrible. This is perfect, leaves no funny marks on my images, casts little to no colour cast and is exactly what I needed. I have not found a situation where the 10 stop was too much, or too little. If you are only going to buy one ND filter, then this is the one to go for in my opinion.The only problem I had when I purchased this was that I was getting a funny pink rectangle cast on the centre of my images, which after some experimenting was light being leaked in through the viewfinder, so I do also recommend that you use the viewfinder cover that your camera comes with when using this on bright days. On darker days or in shaded areas it doesn't effect your images so much. That's a must in my opinion though, if you have lost your viewfinder cover, buy another when you buy this filter.I also recommend getting a shutter release cable. I also own a remote, but I will go for the cable 99% of the time as you can set focus lock with it, use bulb mode and lock it on without having to hold it on and it always works. There's no worrying about pointing it the right way, or batteries running out. Most cameras also have a self timer function which works just as well, although personally I find it annoying having to wait for it each time, it adds an extra 10-15 seconds onto a 30 second exposure and if your pushed for time, racing against weather, a setting sun or just impatient, it's much easier to get a shutter release cable. A shutter release cable is around £15 and a remote is around £20 at the time of writing. Well worth the money in my opinion. You will find yourself using them for much more than just long exposures. Tripod photography sometimes requires the use of an external shutter release as in certain shooting conditions the force of you pressing the shutter can wobble the camera and ruin a shot.I would recommend this to anyone, its great quality, a reasonable price and doesn't leave bad colour casts on your images. It's something that most photographers should carry in their kit bag, as you never know when you need it.

16.8.2014

Used with the Nikon D800, Nikon 24-70/2.8 and Nikon 70-200/4 (with a step up ring) the Hoya Pro ND 1000 and Hoya Pro ND 64 filters work very well. They give sharp pictures with very good colour and no extra optical vignetting (ND filters from other brands do give optical vignetting because they consist of dark glass, while the Hoya Pro ND filters have a metal coating which gives an even light distribution).I measure the exposure and white balance with an UV filter on or without filter and then set exposure and white balance to manual (using WB presets) and compensate the exposure when the ND 1000 filter is mounted. The white balance needs a B4 compensation for this filter,so at least on my setup it gives a bit of warmth unless you correct it, but that is easily corrected in camera and the difference is consistent so that I can always use the same WB compensation (B4) after having measured the WB for a specific scene.I measure the exposure and white balance with an UV filter on or without filter and then set exposure and white balance to manual (using WB presets) and compensate the exposure when the ND 64 filter is mounted. The white balance consistently needs no compensation for this filter.Edit: I have noticed that in many cases AWB works fine with the Hoya Pro ND 1000 or Hoya Pro ND 64 filter mounted (also when mounted together). This means that it is usually enough to set the exposure manually while letting AWB set the WB.You can stack filters, which I do with the Hoya 77mm Pro ND 1000, Hoya 77mm Pro ND 64 and the B+W 702 77mm 25 Percent MRC Graduated Neutral Density filter. The same WB compensation is then achieved (i.e. the ND 1000 and ND 64 filters themselves are not affected with regards to WB, and so no additional compensation is needed as long as the other filters are neutral). I stack the ND 1000 and the ND 64 and if needed I stack the GND in front of the ND filter/s. Note that you do get mechanical vignetting from the stacking so that I can use 24 mm focal length with one filter, 28 mm with two filters and 35 mm with three filters with no visible vignetting from the filters.When it comes to cleaning, the Hoya Pro ND 1000 and Hoya Pro ND 64 are a bit more difficult to clean compared to the B+W MRC filters. It means that a microfiber cloth is normally the only thing you need, but if you put a finger print on the glass, you will need to use B+W filter cleaning solution to make it come off, which has not yet been the case for me with the B+W MRC filters.To sum it up the Hoya PRO ND filters are currently the best money can buy with excellent colour reproduction, without loss in sharpness and without vignetting. Highly recommended.

20.1.2016

Recently taken delivery of this. On a 700d crop sensor camera I can use the filter on a 77mm thread canon 24-70 and (with a 77-67mm adapter ring) a 67mm thread canon 10-18mm stm lens without any vignetting / obstruction at all. I'm sure other lenses will be the same. The ability to use the filter with the 10-18mm stm lens really surprised me as 67mm filters screwed direct to the lens are visible in shot at the 10mm end and vignette to varying degrees at the narrower angles.I've had a good look at the images today and the shift in colour balance (when using Auto White Balance) is minimal to negligible (in the conditions the camera appeared to render slight inconsistent /

23.3.2016

I have bought the Hoya 49mm Pro ND 1000 filter.It is just great for my Sony a7 camera and Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 lens. Hoya produces the best value for money ND filters. The ND 1000 is the darkest neutral density filter for 49 mm filter thread. It's ideal for long exposure shooting. Like in the case of creating light rays from car lamps during night. Or vanishing people and cars from photos during daylight by using 30 seconds long exposure.It is isn't truly neutral density. It changes a little the colors. Not big issue for amateurs like me. That is unavoidable with affordable ND filters. It isn't a professional ND filter as its name suggests. Professional ND filters costs at least five times more.

27.8.2016

Bought this filter for landscape photography for long exposures of moving water. Allows for slower shutter speed to capture movement, say in a situation where normally you would need a shutter speed of a 60th of a second this filter would allow you to open the shutter for a full second. Obviously you need a tripod or solid surface to place camera on also to prevent blurring of image.Also would allow you to use a larger aperture and get a shallower depth of fieldThe digital multi-coating is supposed to reduce the appearance of lens flare and ghosting.I find this is enough to capture the movement and when taking photos at sunset when light levels were lower I was able to open the shutter for 45 seconds or so using this filter.

1.9.2016

By no means, this is a full review. It is merely an initial impression of the product.So it is what it is. I actually bought this product from Choetech only because of that rubber stand that comes with the actual charger, because last time I bought one similar product from Aukey and although functionally I didn't experience any problem with that, that one was damaged quite soon due to quite a few drops on the floor from the table while somehow accidentally I pulled a cable too much that was attached to it and as that one had a plastic slippery body. Although this one from Choetech has the same material on the charger itself, the extra bottom rubber holder holds it quite well. But I miss one thing.

10.5.2014

Having bought Hoya products in the past, I was hopeful this filter would be of a similar high quality and I haven't been disappointed. The filter certainly seems to cut out plenty of light (I haven't tested if it is the full 10 stops or not), and having taken some test shots there doesn't appear to be any loss in picture quality or any colour cast. The filter is easy to attach & remove and feels very well made as I've come to expect from Hoya products.My only small niggle is that if using this filter with another (such as a polarising filter), then at 16mm you do get a little bit of vignetting on the photo. When up to about 18mm this isn't a problem and obviously it's fine if it's the only screw-in filter being used.As for delivery,

11.7.2017

First ND filter that I ever bought and I'm glad I did. Gives lovely results and is cheaper than the 100x100mm square filters.PROS- Relatively good value for money- Good quality- Case that it comes in does a good job of protecting the filter and is nice and small.CONS- It is quite wide and although it can be used with other filters I have experienced some vignetting when stacking up.- Not great if you want to use it with lots of different lenses with different filter thread diametersAll in all I would recommend buying this if you are just starting out with long exposures and don't think you'll be using many other filters.

22.4.2016

This is an excellent product, its very well made. It doesn't seem to affect sharpness, but its benefits in allowing longer exposures in bright light and ultra long exposures at say, just after the sun has dipped below the horizon, are fantastic. If you use a ND Grad set up with an adapter and holder, I'd not recommend it, rather get a slide in ND filter that is compatible with your filter holder. The filter is rather thick so it means your ND Grad kit sits quite far forward which means the filter holder can intrude into the edges of the image, depending on how wide your lens is.The image attached is a 5 minute exposure using this ND 1000 filter.

2.12.2014

Great filter and worth every penny. Unlike other 10 stop neutral density filters, this one does not leave a colour cast. Experienced hands will know this but for those who are trying this for the first time, you will need an exposure chart to work out how long you need to open the shutter for. You will need to take a reading with your camera's meter and then reference the chart which tells you how long to expose it for. You then set this up on your camera using the manual settings option and hey presto! Some experimentation may be necessary to get it just right for your particular camera but as I have said, it produces great results.

9.5.2016

Although more expensive than the ND filters that seem such very good value for money, the Hoya 52mm Pro ND 1000 is superb. I have tried the lower priced alternatives and have suffered from colourising and the dreaded black cross that these filters give you when taking long exposures. The Hoya has none of these disappointing cons and I am very pleased with it and would recommend it to those looking to obtain a very reliable "stopper" for your bright-light long exposures.Tip - use it in experimental excercises in varying degrees of light, with small apetures to get to know the exposure times needed to get good images.

22.2.2017

A few years ago, I bought a B+W 10-stop filter in preparation for a landscape photography course I was due to attend. Every single image (used on a Canon 5D) had an awful purple colour cast, which kind of ruined my appetite for long exposure photography.I now have a Fuji X-T10 and decided to take the plunge with this Hoya 10-stop filter, in readiness for a coastal holiday. Having used it, I'm very impressed. The resulting images had no visible colour cast and were as sharp as if there'd been no filter in place. It's not especially cheap, but I suppose you get what you pay for. I purchased the 52mm version.

16.2.2020

I bought this for using with my Fujifilm X100F. I find that an ND 64 is a good filter for landscape, And coupled with the cameras internal ND, would be enough to allow me some slower shutter speeds and also to cope with bright conditions and allow more creative use of depth of field.I've got a few Hoya's that I use with my other cameras, as well as Gobe and a Lee filters. Hoya's are well made and the only issue I've had is they can be quite easy to scratch.I've always been happy with the results using Hoya, and in my 25 years of photography I've only had one Hoya I didn't like, so it's a brand I trust.

28.3.2017

I tend to buy B+W filters as the cameras I own generally have high end lenses and I don't think it's sensible to skimp on the quality of glass you put in front of those lenses. That said, an ND filter of this type for me is for an occasional bit of long exposure fun so I thought I would go with a slightly more affordable filter as I will only use it occasionally for non-professional reasons.That said, the few pictures i've taken with it have been impressive and for no reason that I can think of do I feel that it's a hinderance in any way. It's well made and the image quality is excellent.

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