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For Corsair Hydro Series H75 2018, 1623 customer reviews collected from 2 e-commerce sites, and the average score is 4.1.

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8.8.2019

Ok, the cooler is well reviewed here, but I add my experience and some (I hope useful) tips at the end.I use it to cool an Intel i7 9700K.I can summarize the usual things: it does keep the CPU nice and cool, I never get above 50degC (CPU temperature) even when the CPU is under constant load. The fluid temperature depends on the room temperature, it is just a few degrees over the room temperature (which makes sense, temperature difference and flow rate make the heat transfer possible).Even under load and with the room being warm, this is quite a large cooler so the large fans tend to keep to a relative average/low speed. You can tune pump and fans speeds using the Corsair software.Also the RGB lights can be personalized to do...pretty much anything you want. I don't have a "christmas tree" setup, so I tend to keep it simple.On a note, at the time of review the Amazon page states the fans are dual 120mm. Of course they are not, as the radiator is a 280mm. The fans (from the Corsair spec page) are "dual 140mm ML PRO Series RGB magnetic levitation PWM fans".When overclocking the CPU it gets hotter, but I didn't invest much time on overclocking properly, I just used the motherboard settings which are known to not overclock in the best way. Despite that, the CPU speed went to just over 5Ghz and it was working stable. The temperature on the CPU at the time was maintained at about 70/75degC under 100% constant load. But again, proper overclock and proper test should be made on this.Now, the advises (based on my direct experience).1) do not just fix the fan screws as tight as possible to the radiator. The screws are holding from the external "flaps" of the fan frame, so if you tight them too much the frame will bend slightly and the fan become noisy. Just get them tight enough to hold the fan firmly in place and nothing more, they will be ultra silent2) make sure you have decent case fans extracting how air from the case. The cooler exhausts air just slightly above room temperature inside the case, but if you have a powerful graphic card, that will most likely exhaust A LOT of hot air (mine you can feel the heat on the sides on the glass, planning on mounting it vertically). The large fans of the cooler pushing in don't mean you will have the correct air flow to dissipate the heat of the GPU. You need decent fans pulling the hot air out as well. If the case fans are not great (mine weren't), buy good ones. My GPU under 100% constant load was holding 70degC set-point with the GPU fans at almost full speed with the standard case fans, it now holds 70degC set-point with the fans running at 50% even in summer.3) I prefer fans to "pull" aut from the radiator than "pushing" air through the radiator. The exhaust of a fan will be a turbulent flow, whether the inlet is usually a lot more laminar. It should improve the efficacy of the the radiator. Ok ok, there are different opinions here. But I just base this on what I know from work that's all. And I would add that a laminar flow hitting a surface should also be less noisy... but haven't tried that4) the fans are large and fast. If you ramp them up at full speed they are noisy (of course). Don't go heavy on the fans, you don't need to. Being large they move a lot of air without having to spin fast, that's the beauty of it. You will notice that at a normal speed the fluid temperature will be maintained just above room temperature with no issue
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10.6.2017

First thing first,this water cooler is huge! Make sure you have enough room for it. I matched it with a new case (Corsair C400) as in my previous one, would only fit in exhaust's place and that wasn't my plan. Its width is about 95mm as its like a 240mm radiator being cut in half and then the two half pieces being placed on top of the other. Now its being placed on the front of the case as intake and works like a charm.Installation process was easy enough even for me who I'm not an expert in pc building. The instructions which came with it where clear but if you need further details on installation there are plenty of other users like me who are showing online how they've placed it in their case.It comes with everything you will need to install it. It even has pre applied thermal paste so you put it straight out of the box on your cpu.Performance wise its a Corsair product what do you expect? not working properly? I took off its thermal paste which was pre applied as I mentioned before, and applied Noctua's NT H1 just in case (you don't have to do it) and with ambient temperatures of 27-28 degrees Celsius, I got idle min temp 24 and highest 55 on my i7 6700K (always at stock speeds)!!! Some may say that its impossible to get lower temps than ambient's but I've used the same software which I was measuring my cpu temps before installing the watercooler so that would be a pretty accurate comparison . The minimum temps I was getting with air cooler, was room's temp and highest was 60-65 (when having 26-28 degrees ambient temp)when rendering in a 3d application like Cinema 4D (used to use a coolermaster tx3 evo). Please remember that from chip to chip these temps may differ as not all chips have the same behavior regarding temperatures, even two i7 6700K's in the same room may give different results.Noise wise this thing is silent, A Lot! You will barely notice its working when on Indle. But when things are kicking and you need more performance you will certainly feel its presence! It gets LOUD. However, I think you can manage your system so fan's speed never go to high and still have a great result regarding temperature. Corsair is providing a software which is called <<Corsair Link>> where from there you can monitor your system fans speed, temps, even pump's Led's to change color for you to match with Case's theme etc etc.I installed it, I didn't like it and took it off my system. That wasn't for me. Some may find that software their best ever choice some others like me, may not. There are software out there better than this, but you may try it first and see if you like it or not.Concluding, this is a very solid product, easy to install, quiet enough for a working environment, powerful enough for gaming,3d rendering and 3d modelling.PS_1: when installing it please pay some extra attention on the brackets as they are plastic, don't push them too hard. Be a bit more cautious.PS_2: You need it to be more silent? There are plenty of options out there for silent fans and sound insulated cases. Remember you need Static Pressure fans not Air Flow fans (usually when you go for a fan you will see either AF for Air Flow or SP for Static pressure)Thanks,Emmanouil
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26.2.2020

I was recently upgrading my PC which included a new motherboard, CPU and RAM. I decided to go down the water-cooling path for the new CPU. Although more expensive than some other manufacturers, I went with Corsair as they have a good reputation.The new CPU is the OctalCore Intel Core i9-9900K, 4700 MHz (47 x 100) which should fulfil my needs for a few years. The motherboard is an Asus Prime Z390-A and the RAM is two Corsair 3600 RGB 8GB giving 16GB of RAM. Both the motherboard and RAM are RGB devices. So, the choice of this water-cooler, with its RGB fans, seemed a logical choice.When I first unpacked the cooler, the task ahead seemed a little daunting.There are lots of components to assemble and a pile of wires that have to connected to the system. This is a multiplatform cooler so it comes with parts for Intel and AMD processors. Fortunately, by default it’s setup for Intel which saved a bit of work. The instructions are okay but they can leave you wondering if you are using the right parts.I set up the fans in a pull format when I fitted them to the radiator. As I was fitting the radiator at the bottom of the case, this seemed the logical way to do it. This will then draw cool air through the radiator. There are two leads coming from each fan, one for power and the other for the LED lights. These have to be connected to the corresponding leads coming off the heatsink pump.Fitting the heatsink pump on the processor was pretty straight forward. There is thermal paste on the heatsink already but be careful not to disturb it prior to fitting. Was clamped into place you have a couple of other wires to connect. One has to be connected to a SATA power socket which will then supply the power to the pump and fans. The other single wire should be connected to the CPU fan connector on the motherboard, so that the motherboard doesn’t complain that there’s no CPU fan. There is just one more connection to be made, the supplied USB lead has to be connected to the side of the pump with the other end connecting to a spare USB2 header on your motherboard. This allows software to control the RGB lights.As you can see, the job isn’t easy but the rewards are well worth the effort. While I am typing this review, the CPU is running at around 25ᵒC. If I ramp up the processor cores to 100%, the temperature gets up to 68ᵒC for a few seconds and then drops down to around 50ᵒC. This is so much better than air cooling where I’ve had temperatures as high as 80ᵒC and static. What’s more it’s virtually silent.On the downside, I had to send the first one back as the fan lights weren’t working properly. A minor problem but frustrating. Theirs is always the possibility of failures and it’s not always a quality issue. While probably tested fine in the factory, the units have undergone the rigours of travelling to their final destination. The main thing though, is that it was replaced without question.Overall, I am very pleased with the quality and functionality of this water-cooler.
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27.5.2020

For disclosure I have been building computers for over twenty years. I have worked on them professionally and personally in that time. Although I found it an easy install I imagine a novice might struggle and would be better starting out with something a bit simpler.Firstly mounting the block and the radiator was mostly very simple. The Intel bracket is in place by default and it is quite stiff to remove. I double checked I was actually doing what they wanted as it did take a bit of force to come loose. However once that was done it was simple to remove my air cooler and mount the Corsair (thermal paste is pre-applied) in its place.The Rad gave me a little bit more of a headache.I was building in a MicroATX case and I wanted to mount it in the front. My case isn't fantastic and unfortunately the top drive bays are riveted and not easily removable. However I know from experience that most AIO cooler rads will fit in the gap no problem. The Corsair one was slightly thicker and no amount of force could make it go in. I ended up mounting it in the top and sadly lost my 140mm dust filters. However it was easy to fit in that spot and it does look nice.There is actually quite a lot to connect when putting this system together. Each fan has an RGB and power header that need to be connected to the leads coming off the block. The block itself has a USB connector that needs to be run to a USB header on your mmotherboard. It's fairly self explanatory but you do need to make sure you connect your fans to the pump cables not onto the RGB/fan headers on your board like you might with a normal case fan. I had a read of the manual and I thought it was actually pretty poor on this front. I don't know if Corsair just assume people building with this know what they're doing. Though reading it over I felt the descriptions were likely to mislead less experienced builders.Once booted I was impressed with the results. My case is inside a desk so airflow isn't always that great especially at the top and back. However the CPU was idle at around 30C (about 15C cooler than with air) and while gaming it was mainly between 50 and 60C. The noise level from the cooler and its fans were low (in fact I couldn't tell they were running over the GPU) so I am very happy with the new setup.ICue is actually a really good bit of software. I own a Corsair wireless mouse, headset and now cooler and I have never had a problem using the software. My kids love the RGB and I love the temps/acoustics so everyone has won.A great product and the only mark down I have given is for the poor manual and instructions. I actually feel like you could use it for something like a HTPC as it really is quiet enough that I reckon it could live in a living room PC. In fact I am impressed enough I have just ordered a commander and three case fans as I feel like the basic ones in the case are letting the side down.
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27.2.2021

Background and thoughts on the AIO: I'm a pretty new builder in terms of computers. I built one computer in 2014 that was just alright and I made some upgrades to a store-bought model (new fans, graphics card, ram). After completing my M-ATX build in January 2021, I decided to go full air cooler. The stock fan that comes with the Ryzen 5 5600x is not up to snuff when compared to previous fans. I saw my temps at idle getting close to 60 degrees at times. After having a ton of compatibility issues with an air cooler that clearly was NOT designed with AM4 boards in mind (Cooler Master) and didn't change my temps at all - I jumped into the world of water cooled AIOs. There are SO many options out there for AIO water coolers,and really it comes down to cost and need. If you're just trying to keep a CPU nice and chilled - this is your cooler hands down. I love the simple white LED light frankly, and the price difference to go from this model to one that has RGB wasn't worth it at all. The 120mm fan and radiator fit perfect along the rear of the case and there's a perfect amount of clearance with the motherboard heatsink so there's no rub. If you have a mini-itx or micro-atx case and you want a water cooler - this should fit and do the trick.Installation: This fan comes preinstalled with Intel mounting, and while that might scare some of you off who worry about fiddling with things - it's as easy as literally pulling with a small amount of force on the mounting bracket for it to unseat and let you push in the AMD mount. Thats. It. No screwdriver or worrying about damaging the pump. The pump also comes with thermal paste pre-applied - so unless you're worried about the stock stuff, you really don't need to buy any additional paste. IMPORTANT: If you're using this with an AM4 like I was and having a Ryzen 5600x chip - the stock backplate that came preinstalled on your motherboard is needed. The two clips on the AMD mount slide right onto the stock motherboard mount for AMD - and you tighten the screws (again, no screwdriver needed) until it's snug over the CPU. It comes with one Corsair fan - so if you're really worried about airflow and coolness - you could get a second one to have a push-pull configuration - but I found that the single fan gave me great results and an instant upgrade over my previous air cooler.Speaking of RESULTS: Cool and Breezy. I'm idling in the mid 30's now - with some moderate gaming taking it into the 50s and mid 60s. I've always been nervous about water coolers because of the whole water in the computer thing - but Corsair makes this install a pretty simple process. Just have that backplate otherwise you're in for a world of hurt. OH AND BABY IS THIS THING LOW PROFILE AND QUIET. Seriously - my last air cooler was a monstrosity that sounded like - well a monstrosity. This dropped the sound and temps - the perfect AIO in my honest opinion.
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24.9.2016

I recently built a new gaming PC and I chose to purchase the H45 from Corsair as my CPU cooler. This cooler consists of 1, 120mm x 120mm fan/radiator block; rubber tubing and a CPU block. Simple, yet effective.First things first, installation. Well installing this thing was easy, it came with clear instructions so even a complete novice could do it. I installed it onto an Intel processor; but I assume it would be just as easy on an AMD because the parts and instructions looked almost identical, in fact the AMD ones looked easier if anything. It even came with thermal paste pre applied, which was a very nice touch as I was able to return the thermal paste I purchased and save myself just under£10.Now because this is a pre-built liquid cooler and not a custom loop there is no need to ever maintain it, (apart from the obvious dust removal or clean of the fan blades). This was perfect for me, because a custom loop is very expensive and can go wrong very quickly if you do not know what you're doing. I chose this over fan cooling just for that extra piece of mind that my CPU was getting enough cooling; it also gives me the option to overclock my CPU and still have it run at safe temperatures which most fan coolers won't.I have had no issues with this product and think it is great value for the price (around £50). My CPU has always run below 50°C. However, things could always be better. The build does feel a bit ‘plasticy’, but that is to be expected for the price. I feel as if it is quiet, but it could be quieter. I can’t hear it over a film or through my headset but there is a slight hum of the blades spinning when my room quiets down; this might not even be a concern if you are using your PC whilst listening to media. The aesthetic is very minimal; It consists of black tubing, a fan and it has a corsair logo on the CPU block. I quite like this, but some may agree otherwise.All in all, I feel this product is massive jump from a fan cooler. So it’s a great choice if you want the peace of mind from liquid cooling without the hassle of maintaining a full loop. It is working great for me and I love it. However, if you want to really overclock your CPU to its maximum potential, I suggest getting one of the more expensive hydro series coolers by corsair, because they have a better build quality and larger radiators for better cooling which yields better performance, hence why they are called their ‘extreme’ performance coolers. With the better construction of the higher end models in my eyes will make them more reliable which is what you want most from a cooling unit. It is there to keep your CPU safe, spend some more money on it for that peace of mind. However, this is a great option for those wanting to turn their dials up a little for overclocking whilst keeping the temperatures down.
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12.5.2017

I bought this to replace a Zalman CNPS20LQ liquid cooler because It could not handle overclocking my 3970X (I was getting temperatures of 90 degrees on the cores when under load with a 4.5 Ghz overclock which was a small overclock).Now, with this installed, on full load, I can overclock to 4.7GHz (stable) and I barely get temperatures over 50 degrees when playing games. I get sustained temperatures under 74 degrees C when running a prime95 torture test.Now to the pros and cons.Pros:1. Solid build2. Very good cooling.3. Ability for CORSAIR link software to save the settings into the pump block firmware permanently.Cons:1. BIG Con. This 280mm unit does NOT fit in a Cosmos II case with an Asus Rampage IV extreme motherboard.There is a 28 pin ATX power connector on the motherboard which is located to the top where I installed the cooler. This was not apparent when I measured up the radiator size before purchase. The radiator should be fixed with 8 screws to keep it in place. In the end I had to bodge the installation by drilling a hole into my computer chassis so I could at least fix it in place with 3 screws. Not good.In addition to this, the radiator has a black matte finish on which scratches REALLY easily. In my attempts to install this where it could not physically go, I scratched the paint pretty bad - which isn't very good. I guess not super important because it's hidden away inside the case and not that visible.2. Fan speed. Fans at full speed (approx 2800 rpm) sound like a goddamn vacuum cleaner right in your ear. It's not loud, its REALLY loud. This can be mitigated by using a balanced profile in the CORSAIR link software or defining a user defined curve and keeping rpms down to an imperceptable 1080 rpm, or a decent 1300 rpm.3. Corsair Link software is a bit basic, but functions adequately.4. It isn't a very bling piece of kit - there is a one colour LED (configurable colours) on the pump head over the cpu. Not as nice as the NZZT Kraken 62, but then again I wouldn't get that because of the awful software that's required.5. Cabling is a bit horrendous, there is a SATA power connector to connect for the pump power, in addition to a CPU power (1 pin) to connect to the CPU Header on the motherboard. There is a need to use a USB 2.0 header on the motherboard to connect to the pump head in order to configure the system and get diagnostic temperatures / rpms etc. This could be disconnected after configuration, but would be needed to monitor the system.On the whole it would look like the cons outweigh the pros, but that's up to you to decide. Overall I like this piece of kit. It was a pain to install, but performs very well, which was the whole reason I got it.
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19.11.2018

Water-cooling is more efficient than air-cooling, because water has a far higher specific heat capacity (the ability to suck up and store heat) than air. Water-cooling is, then, a good thing, but can be a bit scary: water and expensive electronics don’t mix, right? Well, with one of these sealed units from Corsair you’re saved from the embarrassment and expense of a soaking wet PC while still getting the benefits of a water-cooled CPU.It’s actually quite easy to fit. It consists of two parts connected by a pair of flexible hoses: the cooling block that fits over the CPU and the radiator that fits on the front grille of your computer. This model comes with two 120 mm cooling fans,and the radiator is sized to fit them. I was fitting mine into an AeroCool micro-ATX case (a small case) and it fitted perfectly, with the fans on the outside of the mounting plate and the radiator on the inside. Fitting the CPU cooling block is straightforward too: there are different backplates for AMD and Intel, but the motherboard I was using didn’t need either. I unscrewed the old cooling unit, cleaned off the thermal paste from the top of the CPU chip, fitted the spacers and then placed the cooling unit carefully on top and secured it with big thumbscrews (there's thermal paste preapplied). The fans come with a splitter cable, so they only need one fan connector on the motherboard (if you use a three-pin connector on the motherboard, the fans will be at full power all the time; if you use a four-pin connector, the motherboard can regulate the fans’ speed, which makes them much quieter). The Cooling block on the CPU contains the pump, which is powered using a SATA connector, and also plus just one control pin into the CPU fan connector on the motherboard.Turning it on, you get a nice comforting illuminated Corsair logo, which confirms that the pump is working properly and looks rather smart too. You can see the fans turning, so you know they’re working too. For the first couple of hours of operation, there was a quiet tick every few seconds; I believe this was due to a small bubble of air inside the cooling system. I believe that tapping the radiator gently can make this noise go away, but in my case it eventually stopped by itself.It’s arguable that with modern cool-running CPUs the need for water-cooling is less important than it used to be. However, it does look rather good, and as long as you have your fans controlled by the temperature of the CPU it can be a lot quieter than air-cooled systems. The more efficient heat dissipation also makes water-cooling ideal for overclocked systems.
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18.7.2017

UPDATE (2017-08-01)I finally got the AM4 bracket from Corsair (yeah, you have to pay for that if it doesn't come in the box). I think that newer product runs do have AM4 brackets in the box so at least newer buyers don't have to wait a week or two to do their build.It 'seems' that it's cooling but I'm running Linux so I'm a bit leary of the CPU temperature sensors. However, when I go into EFI it looks as if the cooling is working.Corsair has no utility for Linux so I have to control the fans/pumps from the motherboard (ASRock AB350M Pro4) EFI/BIOS. I erred on the side of caution and ran everything at full power (CPU and chassis fan headers)before the pulling things back to the Performance profile.I haven't really heard the pump but I've felt the tubing and it feels at though fluid is moving and things seem to running okay.If I had to do it again (or if I decide to replace this), I'll probably so with another company.I'll update one way or another as things progress...====================ORIGINAL REVIEW:As other reviewers have stated, this is NOT compatible with AM4 (AMD Ryzen 7) motherboards out of the box. I was building my new system with my young son and then we hit a wall when the brackets provided FAILED to fit the AM4 mounting config.Now my build has been sitting unfinished for over a week waiting for an AM4 bracket to be shipped by Corsair (that I had to PAY for) which just shipped today (or at least the USPS got an electronic message from Corsair that they were thinking about shipping some time). I checked a few forums the last couple of days and they said that Corsair had sold out of the AM4 brackets (that, once again, YOU have to pay for and wait, even though the Amazon listing shows that AM4 is supported... it's NOT).So, I'll revisit when/if I get the AM4 brackets that I had to pay for (again, wth? Corsair). Sucks we you finally getting everything together for a build to have to wait due to misleading information on the listing.If I don't get the brackets soon, I'll send the cooler back. Oh, and Corsair also lied on the H60 cooler (that I bought for another future build), so I'll have to send BOTH back.Thanks, Corsair, for screwing over one of your most loyal customers (I have a whole lot of Corsair products, from peripherals to cases to fans to whatever), but after this nonsense, I'll be re-thinking any future Corsair purchases.The least you could have done, Corsair, is sent the AM4 brackets out for free after your false advertising. That would have been the right thing to do.Not happy.
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18.7.2020

.. a vast improvement over any 'stock' cooler or many aftermarket passive or active air coolers. Please note that I can't comment on Intel mainboards, but I've added these to a few AMD machines and they all work wonderfully.To install this on an existing machine, you may need to disconnect and remove *everything*, as the mainboard needs to be removed from the case (unless the case has a removable right/lower panel). The plastic heatsink then needs to be removed (crosshead screw) and the metal retaining plate will then come away from the rear of the mainboard.It starts to be tricky here. The radiator unit needs to be screwed to the (normally) back of the case,the CPU should be in place (clean of any previous thermal paste or pads) and secured in the ZIF socket. You'll then need another set of hands to hold the rear plate in place, plop a pea-sized blob of thermal goo on the centre of the processor and then plonk the heatsink and retaining bracket in place, then get the four (supplied) screws through the correct holes (AM3 and AM4 are slightly differently placed), ensuring that the heatsink doesn't wobble too much while you're doing it.The instruction manual is rather vague on the installation process, and if you do a YouTube search on "how to do it", the majority are all running bare machines, and don't actually show you how fiddly it can actually be!Take a look at the photo - the two white fans are 80mm - the H45 is 120mm, and needs an additional 40mm above or below for the waterpump enclosure - PLEASE check the size of your existing or new case before you go down the water-cooling route.On the upside - that machine is a Phenom II x4 955 (3.2GHz) - with the original (air) cooler it ran happily at around 45-50°, but when that failed (8 years - not bad), I replaced it with a succession of £30-40 air-coolers, and it would usually run anywhere between 60-80° - then cut out at 84°. It's an old lady now (16Gb DDR3) , but actually outperforms my Ryzen 5 3600 (48Gb DDR4) with identical graphics cards (Radeon RX570 8Gb), and it runs With this, it's running at no more than 43° under stress-test load, overclocked to 3.6GHz.If you want a very well performing cooling solution, and you're not afraid to really start pulling things to bits (and putting things together again), you can't really go wrong with this - but ensure you have enough thermal paste to hand. The chances are you *will* make a mess the first time around, but be patient.Hope this is of use!
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15.11.2018

I used this to replace an existing Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler, (so this Corsair cooler is about 3 times the price) in a Fractal Design - Define R5 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case on a i7-6700K processor which is mildly over-clocked.It comes well packaged and protected, with the large radiator already connected to the sealed CPU cooler. You need to put the fans on yourself.The Fractal case comes with removable panels to allow the radiator to be mounted on the top of the case, one thing to note is that by installing this radiator in this (and I assume other cases) the radiator does not span the entire width of the case so what was a sealed case at the top is now one which has open holes so dust can fall in.In addition though I now have watercooling, more sound may exit the case as the top is now open.The instructions are OK but could be better, e.g. “we recommend the fans are positioned as air intakes” but there is no good diagram to explicitly confirm which way to mount the fans. (You should see only the Corsair logo and not the name Corsair.) The website marketing photos show the correct way.The B versus C screws could also be better drawn in the instructions; in reality, the C screws have a big notch in them, which is not in the diagram.It’s also difficult to know if the cooler is actually touching the CPU itself. It of course comes with the standard components to mount so it should all be fine but unlike a standard fan heat-sink with springs, there is less tactile feedback. On the other hand, it feels like a less delicate operation as you do not have to put a heavy heat sink on the processor.There are extra cables, the cooler requires a spare SATA power connection, presumably to power the pump, plus a three pin connection to the CPU fan, the two main fans connected to a supply Y cable that then connects to a spare fan connection on the motherboard. However, it’s nice to have a big open space in the centre of the case which was previously occupied by the heavy heat sink and fan.A quick boot up and check on the CPU temperature and running all cores on the CPU showed the cooler was working well. The CPU cooler lights up in white, which, if that is your thing, is nice.This cooler is obviously for higher end systems. It will, I am sure be more efficient, but I wonder if having a more open case (in a case that was bought for it sound proofing) will offset this.
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13.2.2017

I have had this cooler for almost 8 months now and all I can say is WOW!!! I have it currently installed on a Thermaltake Core P3 case (see photos). I added two thermaltake "Ring" fans in a push pull configuration to the radiator. The radiator itself is very thick. My idle CPU temperature (again, mounted to a Core P3 case which is an open design wall-mountable case) is 23c. When gaming it does not go above 40c. When I tested with AIDA64 my CPU temp did not go past 45c! This thing does its job! RECOMMENDATION: Remove the pre-applied thermal paste. The paste is okay however, I wanted something stronger. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut which is used for extreme overclocking.I have this mounted on top of a Intel i7 6850K that I OC'd to 4.3Ghz. I could go higher, but I feel safe where it is. I have had no issues with this liquid cooler and I do not hear the noise of the pump. I do plan on building a RYZEN PC (I build PCs as a hobby just started building for a local business). I have compared this to my H100i and it blows it out of the water (no pun intended). I do not recommend this for a SFF build, the radiator is really thick.PROs: Great for gaming, Great for overclocking, RGB color changeable to match any system, Great for the price. Many many many more!CONs: The Corsair link software can be buggy, but I only used it to change the color of the RGB. Other than this, there is really no other cons I can think of.My PC Specs:Case: Thermaltake Core P3 (now wall mounted)CPU: i7 6850K OC 4.3GhzPSU: Just upgraded to Corsair HX1200iGPUs: GTX Titan X Pascal x2 (OC 2088 Ghz) both AIO liquid cooled (temps don't go above 50c under load; 27c idle)Fans: 6 Thermaltake "Riing" RGB fans with controllersRAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32Gb (not OC'd)Storage: WD Black x2 5TB total (1 2 TB drive and 1 3 TB drive)Boot Drive and OS drive: Samsung EVO 500 GB SSDMotherboard: Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming 7 Revision 1 Socket 2011 v-3RGB Lighting Strips: NZXT RGB Lighting Strips x4 controlled by CAM softwareCorsair Fans: Corsair RGB Memory FansNZXT HUE: NZXT HUE+ hub for RBG lighting stripsEVGA: EVGA SLI High Bandwidth Bridge (RED, GREEN, BLUE color change only)Sleeving: Thermaltake Custom Sleeves (Green and black)
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3.1.2019

Once upon a time, the idea of water-cooling your computer seemed alien and daunting - after all who would want to run the risk of damaging your components for a cooler operating conditions? Times have changed and water cooling kits like this Corsair Hydro H100 brings the option to all levels of builders.This "all-in-one" cooler features a 240mm high density radiator, two 120mm fans with adjustable speed, mounting kits for most CPU sockets and fitting screws. Installation is reasonably easy if you are using this in a new build system, however if you are upgrading your current CPU cooler then the chances are you will have to take your system apart to allow correct installation.Depending on the size and angles of your computer case you will either find the install pretty easy or pretty annoying - however take your time as it is worth the effort.In terms of performance this cooler preforms very nicely on a stock speed CPU (not-overclocked), cooling it to more than 10 degrees lower than the previous air cooler managed. The advantage being that the Corsair runs quieter than most AC's I've come across. The fans that cool the radiator have adjustable speed so you can turn them down to make them near silent or turn them up for increased airflow (and noise). After a bit of practice I was able to find a good balance between giving my CPU a moderate overclock and having the fans at a good balance (keeping my CPU cool without offending my ears). I personally think that "full water-cooling" is overrated and overpriced, you could spend hundreds on cooling your CPU, GPU, system but for the average user - it is really necessary? For a moderately low cost and a but of time I have ended up with a faster and cooler computer system.At the end of the day if you want to get some extra performance out of your hardware, want a quieter system or one that runs at a lower temperature (therefore more stable) then this Corsair H100 is an ideal solution. Please ensure that the CPU water block is compatible with your CPU socket (it doesn't fit AM4 and will require an additional purchase), also take into account where in your case you are planning to install the radiator (ideally with a push/pull configuration).
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29.8.2019

I was fed up having my Windows machine crash with heat issues when transcoding video using Handbrake so I decided to upgrade my Noctua fan to this water cooler. Glad I did.The unit is easy to install as long as you have a basic understanding of your case and motherboard. Carefully check which risers you need for your board (Have a look in your motherboard manual if unsure on type to use).Comes with pre applied thermal paste which is great although I suggest you make sure of position over the cpu so as to avoid moving it about after fitting and smearing the paste.Under normal load the pump and fans are barely audible provided you download and configure the iCUE software from Corsair.This software allows you to set custom fan and pump performance based on heat of various sensors, I use the CPU sensor to drive the power of the fans and pump which seems to work well however you can adjust according to many other sensors too.The same software can be used to adjust the lighting on the unit although there is no lighting on the fans or radiator (Which suits me fine).Other Corsair hardware can be configured using the same software which is useful as I have a Corsair keyboard.At full load and in the height of the hot weather we have had my CPU was peaking at 63 degrees which is way lower than the temps with the fan cooler. Be warned though, the noise level is significant when the fans and pump are running full speed to keep the CPU cool in hot weather however there isn't really any way to avoid this.The only gripe I have is that the fans are set according to current user so if I am running an intensive heat generating process and someone else logs into their account on the same machine, it sets the fan according to their usage which can lead to overheating the CPU. If anyone knows a way of getting round this would love to hear - As a workaround I set the same iCUE settings in everyone's account on the same machine however would prefer if the setting could be made globally rather than on a per user setting.You will need a spare USB header on your board to use this unit and I had to disconnect one of the leads from my front of case USB units however not a big deal if you have a spare.
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30.5.2017

It's Summer, it's hot, I'm hot, and the fact I'm playing games and my CPU temp is pushing 100 degrees C makes that worse. It wouldn't help longevity either. So I decided to order the Corsair H100i V2 240mm. It arrived today, I unboxed it like a child at Christmas, and attached it to the computer as quickly as possible to give it a test. Very early impressions are excellent.The installation into my LGA1151 socket was simple, couldn't be any easier, and it all falls together nicely. I only have one real complaint about this aio system and it's the fact that the pipes are stiff. It just feels like they don't want to flex and I still don't feel comfortable with it now.Upon testing I have found a significant reduction in temperatures. Of course, coming from a stock Intel cooler, it is obvious I'll see such massive reductions.Idle temp with Intel cooler: 40-50 degrees C.Corsair Idle temp: 25-27 degrees C.light/medium load Intel cooler: stayed around the 40-50 degree mark pushing 60 on medium loads.Light/medium on Corsair H100i V2: Bouncing around 27-35 as the pump/fans continually adjust to the temps.X-Plane 11 loading on Intel cooler: 100-101 degrees C.X-Plane 11 loading Corsair H100i V2: 54 degrees C max.I only tested that because X-Plane 11 really pushes hard when it's loading the flight up. When the game has loaded the temp drops down to 35-40 degrees C on the Corsair H100i V2. On the Intel cooler it stayed at around 80 degrees C.Previously, when I had my Intel Core i7 5930K, I used a Cooler Master V8. It was just an insanely large cooler and for all of that size it doesn't match the performance of this. I got rid of it because of its size as it was pushing on my GPU and I had to take off the backplate and it was just a nightmare. Not worth it.Just as a quick side-note to monitor the CPU temp I am using the debug LED on my motherboard. It's quite accurate and is easy to see. I have the system plugged into the USB header on my mobo so I can control it via Corsair Link. I have set it all to performance mode, though I may customise it myself.Just so people are aware, I do know 100 C is extremely bad, hence my order of this product.
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