10.9.2016

Well I wanted to give this time to break in before I wrote a review on it and it's now been close to a month so I guess it's time. They are mixing all of their Corsair water cooler reviews together, which is not good because people won't know if they're actually reading a review of the product they're wanting or a completely different product, so to anyone reading this, this is a review of the H100i v2 240mm.First a quick review of the seller PCRush Outlet in case that's who is selling it when you're looking to purchase.~ 5 stars for shipping. It shipped the next day after ordering.~ 0 stars for packaging. The cooler was shipped inside a box three times larger with ZERO packaging. No bubble strips,no bubble wrap, no peanuts, no paper. Nothing. Just free to bounce around all the way from them to me. I'm surprised it worked and wasn't leaking when I got it.The TL:DR is at the bottom in case you don't want to bother with the entire review.OK now the review.This thing is pretty straightforward to install but unfortunately what should have been simple turned into a headache. I was one of MANY that have the "backplate not secure on some Intel boards" problem. Apparently this problem has been going on for YEARS on many of the models of Corsair coolers and they still refuse to admit that there's a problem. The problem is that the backplate, when securely fastened, is still not tightly secured against the back of the board. Corsair says that this is normal and that after attaching and tightening the top it will pull the backplate in and tighten it as well. Unfortunately, I was one of many that this was simply not the case. After tightening the top I could still pull the cooling plate off of the CPU because the backplate was not tight against the back of the board.So I did what the other forum posters and YouTube videos advised: I went the next day and got some rubber washers to put between the backplate and the board. Now, I had over 5mm of give on my backplate so it was very loose. If you only have 1 or 2mm of give you might not need washers which I'll explain why in a sec. The washers I used are 5/32 x 3/8 x 1/16 and this was on an Asus Z87 Pro. The size you will need will differ based on the thickness of your board and the amount of play you still have after it's been secured to the back of the board. That size washer is what I needed with play of at least 5mm on my board and they worked perfectly.After I attached the plate using the washers I still had 1-2mm of play which concerned me. I wasn't sure if I should put on an additional thin washer or not but decided to try it as it was. This time after tightening the cooling plate over the CPU it did pull the back in and tighten it as well. So if you only have 1-2mm of give after you've tightened your backplate you're probably good to go without washers. If you have between 3-4mm of give you may or may not need washers. If you have 5mm+ of give you're gonna need washers. The bad thing about putting it on before you know if you need washers or not is you mess up the pre-applied thermal paste which is very nice and not just some generic paste. So hopefully you can use this as a guide to see if you'll need washers or not before putting the top on.After I got through that headache the rest was easy. Put the fans on the radiator and attach the radiator to the case (Actually I inserted the radiator and fans before attaching the cooling plate over the CPU but anyway...). The instructions call for the fans to be used in a pull config for the best results. If you have an air intake on the bottom of your case and room for the radiator that might work well. Mine is mounted in the top of my case and since heat rises I felt it needed to be in a push config and also to work with the airflow of my case. So I have 2-120mm fans on the bottom of the radiator in push config and 1-240mm on top of the radiator in pull config. It works wonderfully.Now for the temps. I'm running an i7 4771 at 3.9. The lowest I've seen is 21 degrees which was 3 degrees below room temp. The highest I've seen is 55 degrees. The 55 degrees was after running all 8 cores at 100% at 3.9 for four hours. Even still it appears to have just been a spike because it was hovering in the mid to upper 40's. It likely hit 50 degrees, kicked the fans up higher, then maintained in the 40's. So this thing cools like a beast.The fans are not loud really because, so far for me, they haven't really needed to spin up in order to keep things cool. If you're overclocking like mad then yeah they're gonna run faster and be louder. At max they are very loud. Also one thing I've found in the Corsair Link software is that the fan speeds DO NOT scale with the temperature. For example the fan speed is 40% at 20 degrees. If you set it to be 50% at 30 degrees it's not going to be 45% at 25 degrees. It's going to be 40% all the way until it hits 30 degrees and the same for every step above that. So I recommend creating a custom profile with adjacent steps no larger than 5 degrees apart. That's a shame too my EVGA software for my video card raises the fan speed 2% for every single degree rise in temp. That's how it should work.Also I noticed in at least two different places in the instructions that the picture of the item was correct but the letter used to describe which part it was was not correct. So look at the pictures not the letters.TL:DRSo that's about it unless I can think of something else later. This is a great cooler that gives excellent temps but it must be installed properly and Corsair's version of properly isn't always correct. If there's any give at all after you've tightened the backplate and the cooling plate over the CPU then you need washers.

1.9.2019

TL;DR: First unit only lasted a few months, had some difficulty to install, got it replaced with a new unit, warranty recommendedLonger story:I had a similar cooler in my Alienware PC that lasted a while, but then malfunctioned, so I bought this and it was awesome! Not much longer later, I built a new PC and put this in and I'm sure things were fine. Recently, however, I noticed that the LED/RGB on the cooler was red, which (by default) means the temperature has reached a certain level. I checked iCUE and the pump's RPM was 0. I checked BIOS and saw the same. I did multiple things to troubleshoot the issue with no resolution. It seems apparent that this unit malfunctioned after having it only for a few months (no more than that).I contacted Corsair's tech support, but they're kind of slow at responding. I looked over their warranty page and it seemed that I should contact Amazon, since I bought it here. The return window closed, but I did purchase an additional warranty, even though I can't remember which product that warranty was for since I bought multiple products at the same time. Luckily, Amazon sent me a replacement and I'm happy to have an AIO that works again. Luckily, I still had the stock fan for the CPU, which surprised me by being pretty effective, which I used while I waited all of 2 days or less for the replacement to arrive (on the Sunday before Labor Day, which really impressed me).Some one in a review said this product was loud, which it most definitely is not. I run it on the highest speed and either I can't hear it at all or it's very quiet. Maybe that person was referring to a different model.I docked a star under "easy to install," because it had some difficulty. In the Alienware, I didn't need to attach a back plate and this product comes with the Intel mount already installed. However, I had to install a fan on each side of the radiator and one of those fans had to attach to the back of the case. This meant that a long screw had to go through a hole on the back of the case, through one hole on the fan, through an empty space, through the second hole on the fan, into the radiator. By the time it went through the case and fan there was barely any length of the screw left to go into the radiator. This was extremely difficult, but I managed to get it to work. If only there was some kind of guide for the screw between holes on the fans , instead of empty space, this wold have been much easier. Unfortunately, after going through the first hole, it was sometimes difficult to line it up with the second hole.The second time I installed the unit (this time in my new PC) was actually easier, even though it required slightly more work for the newer CPU, because I had to install a plastic back plate. The third time I installed it (after receiving a replacement for the one that failed) was slightly difficult, because the back plate wouldn't stay on very well. I had to hold both sides of it to get the screws in and even then it seemed kind of loose.I docked a star from "material quality," mostly because the first unit I ordered failed after a few months. I really hope the replacement lasts a lot longer. If it doesn't, I may have to edit this review. Otherwise, I like it, although I'd need to do some testing to see how much cooler my CPU is with this as opposed to the stock (fan only) cooler. At idle, there does't seem to be much difference.I've begun to believe that liquid cooling for modern CPUs is pretty much necessary. I've also realized AIOs like this one are much easier to install than a full water pump and loop with tubes you have to cut yourself and run through various parts. The AIO makes everything much simpler and doesn't need any kind of maintenance. I got this one, because I like Corsair's products and I like that the thick radiator fits between two fans and attaches to the back of the case. This was how the one that came with the Alienware was set up, so maybe I just liked the initial set up and decided to go with it. If you have more money, you could buy another model that is longer and takes up more space, but this one seems good enough. I no longer have a CPU for overclocking, because I'm not interested in that, so this AIO fits my needs perfectly.

17.8.2017

I am using this with my Ryzen 5 1600x. First of all please note that it does not comes with a AM4 standard mounting bracket. However many Asus mobo has a specific offset hole to use older AMD brackets to use in ryzen setup. My Asus Strix B350F has this. But I have purchased it from corsair India support and it is 640 rs compared to high price in amazon. If you need one then contact corsair support and they will give you instructions how to get this from them. Now coming to Pros and Cons,Pros:1. It is very good compared to other thin radiators and it s performance is closer to H100i. Because it is double the thickness of H100i (which is 240 mm rad). If you don't believe then check some legit online reviews.If you don't have space inside your cabinet for a 240 mm rad then buy this one. It will be approx 4-6C hotter than H100i.2. I am using only one fan and using it in push (update: pull with one fan to maintain neutral air pressure inside case) configuration. Push vs push-pull only differs the temp in 2C as I have tested it. So for better aesthetics and reduce noise I have removed one fan. If you are too worried with temp you can add two fans but believe me it is not that much worthy. Most important: always blow the rad with external cool air. A thumb rule to get min temp on CPU with minimal temp impact on GPU.3. The build quality is simply superb compared to my old H60 v2.4. Now most important is temp, as off now we all know that my Ryzen 1600x has a temp offset of +20C. So while stress testing in default I am getting max 67 C which I believe is very impressive specially in hot Indian climate. Now please note that use a good quality thermal paste and proper installation is necessary. I am using CM Value series. If you can buy more expensive paste you can further reduce 2 C like Arctic MX-4 but not more than that. Now adding another fan reduces this temp to 2-3 C with some increased noise level. So what you like is up to you.5. Overclock: at 3.9 GHz at 1.38V, I am getting 85 C max temp with prime 95 which is very good because I am not using very aggressive fan curve for my setup.6. I am not using corsair link. Using corsair link you can run the pump at performance mode (pump RM: 1500 in regular mode and 2100 in performance mode) with decrease temp up to 4C as per my condition. There is not a considerable amount of noise when the pump is in performance mode which is good.Cons:This is not a corsair problem I believe. When ever I am using the corsair link software I am getting black screen error in my Asus Strix B350f Ryzen setup. Already reported to Asus and they are trying to fix it (update: India support is not that capable to handle this, however others are also facing this issue and I hope some bios update will fix it in near future). The problem is whenever you are running more than one hardware monitoring software in background this black screen error is persistent.So I have to remove the corsair link software. Now please note that if you are not using corsair link you can not change the RGB light of the pump and can not run it in performance mode. Since I have no option so I am using the pump connection to my CPU optional fan header and radiator fan on my CPU fan header and it works perfectly in my case. I have tested in my Intel setup and corsair link is not causing any problem there. So I believe it is a very useful info if you are facing some black screen issue in your Ryzen setup as well.Beside this everything is fine. If you need any specific info pls feel free to comment and I will get back to you. Thanks for reading.Ryzen Mounting Kit:Asus mobo has a offset hole and you can use older AMD back plate provided in this cooler. If you want to buy a specific AM4 bracket then contact corsair India support online and they will provide you the same for 640rs. I have purchased one from them. But online seller price is too high. So beware!

8.8.2019

Ok, the cooler is well reviewed here, but I add my experience and some (I hope useful) tips at the end.I use it to cool an Intel i7 9700K.I can summarize the usual things: it does keep the CPU nice and cool, I never get above 50degC (CPU temperature) even when the CPU is under constant load. The fluid temperature depends on the room temperature, it is just a few degrees over the room temperature (which makes sense, temperature difference and flow rate make the heat transfer possible).Even under load and with the room being warm, this is quite a large cooler so the large fans tend to keep to a relative average/low speed. You can tune pump and fans speeds using the Corsair software.Also the RGB lights can be personalized to do...pretty much anything you want. I don't have a "christmas tree" setup, so I tend to keep it simple.On a note, at the time of review the Amazon page states the fans are dual 120mm. Of course they are not, as the radiator is a 280mm. The fans (from the Corsair spec page) are "dual 140mm ML PRO Series RGB magnetic levitation PWM fans".When overclocking the CPU it gets hotter, but I didn't invest much time on overclocking properly, I just used the motherboard settings which are known to not overclock in the best way. Despite that, the CPU speed went to just over 5Ghz and it was working stable. The temperature on the CPU at the time was maintained at about 70/75degC under 100% constant load. But again, proper overclock and proper test should be made on this.Now, the advises (based on my direct experience).1) do not just fix the fan screws as tight as possible to the radiator. The screws are holding from the external "flaps" of the fan frame, so if you tight them too much the frame will bend slightly and the fan become noisy. Just get them tight enough to hold the fan firmly in place and nothing more, they will be ultra silent2) make sure you have decent case fans extracting how air from the case. The cooler exhausts air just slightly above room temperature inside the case, but if you have a powerful graphic card, that will most likely exhaust A LOT of hot air (mine you can feel the heat on the sides on the glass, planning on mounting it vertically). The large fans of the cooler pushing in don't mean you will have the correct air flow to dissipate the heat of the GPU. You need decent fans pulling the hot air out as well. If the case fans are not great (mine weren't), buy good ones. My GPU under 100% constant load was holding 70degC set-point with the GPU fans at almost full speed with the standard case fans, it now holds 70degC set-point with the fans running at 50% even in summer.3) I prefer fans to "pull" aut from the radiator than "pushing" air through the radiator. The exhaust of a fan will be a turbulent flow, whether the inlet is usually a lot more laminar. It should improve the efficacy of the the radiator. Ok ok, there are different opinions here. But I just base this on what I know from work that's all. And I would add that a laminar flow hitting a surface should also be less noisy... but haven't tried that4) the fans are large and fast. If you ramp them up at full speed they are noisy (of course). Don't go heavy on the fans, you don't need to. Being large they move a lot of air without having to spin fast, that's the beauty of it. You will notice that at a normal speed the fluid temperature will be maintained just above room temperature with no issue

29.1.2016

To anyone who is going to order this, be advised the fans are 4 pin, the pump is 3 pin. You HAVE TO BUY a 4 pin splitter, since the fans...are just fans, and the radiator kit has no additional wiring at all. I have an Asus 990FX MB and it has a single CPU fan output and a single CPU OPT fan output. My old GIGABYTE MB didn't even have 2 CPU fan outputs--at all.So now I have to wait on another cable. :(I'll edit this after I actually install it. Right now I have a Antec H620 that has either a fan or pump that's getting sick, so the CPU temp is sneaking upwards of 55C with a cutoff temp of 60C. (Under load... idle temp has crept up from 30 when the cooler was new to about 35-38 now.)Edit: 1-31-16....Well, it's done, finally. Here is the final situation: The Corsair H110 280 cooler itself fits just fine in the top of the Corsair Carbine G400 case with the following caveat. It will not work with a pair of 140mm fans in their factory installed spot if you happen to own an Asus Sabertooth 990FX motherboard. The motherboard causes two problems: The Aux. 12Volts to the motherboard via an 8 pin Molex connector conflicts with the fan on the left side (as you as looking into the case. It misses clearing by at least a 1/4 inch, meaning the left fan won't fit. On the right hand side of the case, the DRAM locking tabs come up just high enough to conflict with the fan on the right. Bottom line: This combination won't work unless you're willing to spend some time and money and engineer around the problem.Here's what I did: I bought a piece of good model airplane/boat 5/32" thick plywood, mounted the 140mm fans in place, and marked the outline of the fans on the plywood. Then the plywood was cut. Then I marked the holes for mounting the fans and drilled them into the plywood. Here's where it cost me money: I purchase a pair of Noctua 120 PWM fans. I mounted those using one of the 140mm mounting holes so I could 'through bolt' the fans in at least one spot. I used the little rubber mounting widgets that Noctua send for the remainder of the holes. Then I marked the inside of the fan duct, and used a REAL jigsaw to cut the holes out. Then everything got assembled. The two 120mm fans give me sufficient clearance to clear both the 12volt Molex connector and the DRAM lock tabs, It is a close fit for everything, still, but it all works.The new cooler basically insisted on sucking air through the radiator and exhausting it into the case, which is the opposite of what I had before. Cool air came in from the front, bottom and side and exhausted through the back and top (Makes sense...heat rises, right?) This is less than perfect in my mind because dust, etc, are going to be hard to vacuum out of the top ... oh, well. I reversed the direction of flow for the 2 140mm fans in the left side cover of the case to help equalize the airflow in/out. Fortunately, the GPU exhausts most of its own hot air out the back of the computer.I guess I'll try this setup for a while and see how it goes. I've got a 3D render going right now, and the temperature is creeping back up to 53 degrees....

29.6.2019

While installation for me wasn't quite as easy as it should have been, I can't fault the cooler for that, instead the Corsair 460x I was installing it in. Considering there is space for fans at the top, Corsair really should have added some extra space up top in order to fit a radiator there. I instead ended up installing the radiator on the exterior of the case, at the top. Regardless, this isn't the fault of the cooler, and when I initially attempted to install it with the motherboard out of the case it went very smoothly, far easier than installing a high end air cooler. The included instructions were sufficient, but nothing special. Not everything was as clear as it could have been,however the installation itself is pretty intuitive and so this is a non-issue.When I initially powered on my computer for the first time after installing it I was shocked at how quiet it was. I actually ended up peering into my case to ensure that the two included ML140 fans had been connected properly. It really is dead silent, even on the default profile, and my three Corsair SP120 RGB case fans make significantly more noise than this cooler. After tweaking the fan profiles of everything and leaving the pump on the 'balanced' preset I cannot hear my computer (~0.75 metres away from me on my desk) when gaming with my speakers.With my 8600k on stock settings idle temperatures, while insignificant, were sitting around 32C in my room with an ambient temperature of 19C. What was really impressive was the temperatures I was seeing under load - in Aida64 Extreme on stock settings temperatures barely exceeded 60C after half an hour on the stress test, and all the while my system remained dead silent. After over-clocking my i5 8600k to 5Ghz at 1.350V I reach 68C under the same test. This is all with the included thermal paste on the cooler, and on a non-delidded processor. This performance is really impressive to me coming from air cooling.In terms of negatives, the only thing I can think of is the USB cable coming from the cooler. To control the RGB this must be plugged in, however the way that it comes out of the cooler can make it somewhat difficult to cable manage. I tried to route it underneath the VRM heatsink, however it comes out some distance from the motherboard, meaning that it is still very visible from the exterior of my case. An integrated solution for this would be more appealing than the mini USB cable utilised here, as it would make it easier to hide the cable coming out from the waterblock. On the plus side this cable is black, and so does not stand out too badly.Overall this cooler is superb, and does everything it needs to very well. The mix of performance and aesthetics cannot be faulted, and the 360mm offerings from both Corsair and other brands do not pose a significant enough bump in performance to justify the increase in performance in my opinion. This is a five star product.

27.2.2021

Background and thoughts on the AIO: I'm a pretty new builder in terms of computers. I built one computer in 2014 that was just alright and I made some upgrades to a store-bought model (new fans, graphics card, ram). After completing my M-ATX build in January 2021, I decided to go full air cooler. The stock fan that comes with the Ryzen 5 5600x is not up to snuff when compared to previous fans. I saw my temps at idle getting close to 60 degrees at times. After having a ton of compatibility issues with an air cooler that clearly was NOT designed with AM4 boards in mind (Cooler Master) and didn't change my temps at all - I jumped into the world of water cooled AIOs. There are SO many options out there for AIO water coolers,and really it comes down to cost and need. If you're just trying to keep a CPU nice and chilled - this is your cooler hands down. I love the simple white LED light frankly, and the price difference to go from this model to one that has RGB wasn't worth it at all. The 120mm fan and radiator fit perfect along the rear of the case and there's a perfect amount of clearance with the motherboard heatsink so there's no rub. If you have a mini-itx or micro-atx case and you want a water cooler - this should fit and do the trick.Installation: This fan comes preinstalled with Intel mounting, and while that might scare some of you off who worry about fiddling with things - it's as easy as literally pulling with a small amount of force on the mounting bracket for it to unseat and let you push in the AMD mount. Thats. It. No screwdriver or worrying about damaging the pump. The pump also comes with thermal paste pre-applied - so unless you're worried about the stock stuff, you really don't need to buy any additional paste. IMPORTANT: If you're using this with an AM4 like I was and having a Ryzen 5600x chip - the stock backplate that came preinstalled on your motherboard is needed. The two clips on the AMD mount slide right onto the stock motherboard mount for AMD - and you tighten the screws (again, no screwdriver needed) until it's snug over the CPU. It comes with one Corsair fan - so if you're really worried about airflow and coolness - you could get a second one to have a push-pull configuration - but I found that the single fan gave me great results and an instant upgrade over my previous air cooler.Speaking of RESULTS: Cool and Breezy. I'm idling in the mid 30's now - with some moderate gaming taking it into the 50s and mid 60s. I've always been nervous about water coolers because of the whole water in the computer thing - but Corsair makes this install a pretty simple process. Just have that backplate otherwise you're in for a world of hurt. OH AND BABY IS THIS THING LOW PROFILE AND QUIET. Seriously - my last air cooler was a monstrosity that sounded like - well a monstrosity. This dropped the sound and temps - the perfect AIO in my honest opinion.

24.9.2016

I recently built a new gaming PC and I chose to purchase the H45 from Corsair as my CPU cooler. This cooler consists of 1, 120mm x 120mm fan/radiator block; rubber tubing and a CPU block. Simple, yet effective.First things first, installation. Well installing this thing was easy, it came with clear instructions so even a complete novice could do it. I installed it onto an Intel processor; but I assume it would be just as easy on an AMD because the parts and instructions looked almost identical, in fact the AMD ones looked easier if anything. It even came with thermal paste pre applied, which was a very nice touch as I was able to return the thermal paste I purchased and save myself just under£10.Now because this is a pre-built liquid cooler and not a custom loop there is no need to ever maintain it, (apart from the obvious dust removal or clean of the fan blades). This was perfect for me, because a custom loop is very expensive and can go wrong very quickly if you do not know what you're doing. I chose this over fan cooling just for that extra piece of mind that my CPU was getting enough cooling; it also gives me the option to overclock my CPU and still have it run at safe temperatures which most fan coolers won't.I have had no issues with this product and think it is great value for the price (around £50). My CPU has always run below 50°C. However, things could always be better. The build does feel a bit ‘plasticy’, but that is to be expected for the price. I feel as if it is quiet, but it could be quieter. I can’t hear it over a film or through my headset but there is a slight hum of the blades spinning when my room quiets down; this might not even be a concern if you are using your PC whilst listening to media. The aesthetic is very minimal; It consists of black tubing, a fan and it has a corsair logo on the CPU block. I quite like this, but some may agree otherwise.All in all, I feel this product is massive jump from a fan cooler. So it’s a great choice if you want the peace of mind from liquid cooling without the hassle of maintaining a full loop. It is working great for me and I love it. However, if you want to really overclock your CPU to its maximum potential, I suggest getting one of the more expensive hydro series coolers by corsair, because they have a better build quality and larger radiators for better cooling which yields better performance, hence why they are called their ‘extreme’ performance coolers. With the better construction of the higher end models in my eyes will make them more reliable which is what you want most from a cooling unit. It is there to keep your CPU safe, spend some more money on it for that peace of mind. However, this is a great option for those wanting to turn their dials up a little for overclocking whilst keeping the temperatures down.

27.10.2016

Having owned this for about a week now, I thought I might leave a review and give some advice to those looking at getting a AIO liquid cooler. First let me say that this is my first water-cooler that I have ever installed, so with that in mind I want to highlight the following.1. For those of you building a PC on a tight budget with not much care for aesthetics, I would go with an air cooler with a big heat-sink (e.g. Hyper Evo 212 or ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro) because if you stick a Noctua fan on there you'll have a far quieter and probably better experience, for far less. However if you are like me and love the aesthetic that a water-cooler provides and hate big heat-sinks getting in the way of your RAM sticks and motherboard,then water-cooling is definitely the way to go.2. The noise. These fans are very noisy at anything over 50% speed, and are small vacuum cleaner level at 100%. Corsair tell you in the manual to plug both fans into the cable coming off the pump housing, and then the cable that comes off that into the cpu fan header. This didn't work for me because while running basic tasks the fans would ramp up to 100% sporadically which became very distracting. I started looking on forums and people were having similar issues. I read somewhere that the pump should stay at 100%, because this provides the best cooling and means less wear and tear on the pump (a changing load is much worse for it). To fix this I simply plugged the main cable that comes off the pump housing into the 3 pin water pump header on my motherboard (this stays at 100% all the time), and plugged in the two fans into CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT on my motherboard. Then I controlled them all using the fan controller in my UEFI BIOS to keep them both below 50% as much as possible.3. With all that being said it really does keep my processor very cool - my core i7-6700k clocked at 4.7 GHz wasn't going above 70*C and at idle it sits around 20 - 25*C depending on room temperature. I also like the RGB control of the corsair logo, which can be changed with corsair link software and configured to changed based on CPU temperature. I have mine on white most of the time and set to change to red when it goes over 70*C.All in all a very good all in one closed loop cooler, but I have to knock off a star for the fan design. While they may be high static pressure fans and work well at pushing air through the radiators, they far too noisy at anything above 50%. Those who have their hearts set on this you have two options: A) Do what I outlined above, if your motherboard allows it -enough fan headers, fan control in UEFI BIOS- or B)You can swap the fans out for some quieter 120mm fans. Noctua NF-P12 PWM fans would probably be a good option, though brown doesn't look too great in most builds.

10.8.2017

About a month or so after installing my H100i v2 cooler, I ran into a problem. One morning I turned on my computer, only for it to automatically shut off a few seconds. This was rather peculiar considering the night before, my cooler was operating perfectly. After checking the RAM (my DRAM_LED would flash before the shutdown), all connections, and the motherboard, I noticed something. The central corsair symbol, which usually lights up white during operation, was dark red. After tearing out the cooler, and replacing it with the stock AMD cooler I had saved, the issue went away. On a positive note, the water cooler's software detected an issue with the cooler, and shut everything down before any damage could occur.

19.11.2018

Water-cooling is more efficient than air-cooling, because water has a far higher specific heat capacity (the ability to suck up and store heat) than air. Water-cooling is, then, a good thing, but can be a bit scary: water and expensive electronics don’t mix, right? Well, with one of these sealed units from Corsair you’re saved from the embarrassment and expense of a soaking wet PC while still getting the benefits of a water-cooled CPU.It’s actually quite easy to fit. It consists of two parts connected by a pair of flexible hoses: the cooling block that fits over the CPU and the radiator that fits on the front grille of your computer. This model comes with two 120 mm cooling fans,

18.7.2017

UPDATE (2017-08-01)I finally got the AM4 bracket from Corsair (yeah, you have to pay for that if it doesn't come in the box). I think that newer product runs do have AM4 brackets in the box so at least newer buyers don't have to wait a week or two to do their build.It 'seems' that it's cooling but I'm running Linux so I'm a bit leary of the CPU temperature sensors. However, when I go into EFI it looks as if the cooling is working.Corsair has no utility for Linux so I have to control the fans/pumps from the motherboard (ASRock AB350M Pro4) EFI/BIOS. I erred on the side of caution and ran everything at full power (CPU and chassis fan headers)

10.1.2018

I was able to snag this cooler for only 85 dollars on sale, and I couldn't be more pleased with it.Note Before Buying:(1)Before purchasing, make sure you have room to fit, as it is a rather large radiator. The tubes are somewhat stiff so the flow of water isn't restricted, so don't think this can be bent multiple ways to fit your case. It's easiest to check your case manual, mine showed me all the possible configurations for a radiator of this size.(2) It's also worth mentioning that for those new to computer building. Unless you absolutely despise the look of air coolers, this cooler isn't necessary unless you plan on doing some overclocking.Pros:(1. Performance)

18.7.2020

.. a vast improvement over any 'stock' cooler or many aftermarket passive or active air coolers. Please note that I can't comment on Intel mainboards, but I've added these to a few AMD machines and they all work wonderfully.To install this on an existing machine, you may need to disconnect and remove *everything*, as the mainboard needs to be removed from the case (unless the case has a removable right/lower panel). The plastic heatsink then needs to be removed (crosshead screw) and the metal retaining plate will then come away from the rear of the mainboard.It starts to be tricky here. The radiator unit needs to be screwed to the (normally) back of the case,

17.7.2017

Brilliant solution to keep your CPU cool. I use it on an i5 4460chip in a mid tower case in the top position in push configuration..Thats how it came in the box. I also have a 200mm side panel fan and a 140mm rear fan both pulling into case.120mm in a push configuration as that's how case came and I cant get to the fan mounting..I do it this way as I have an ambient air temp of 36c in the summer.The water cooler itself is quite large, In fact its solid and well built. The fan is running at full speed, this isn't a ( I ) unit with software fan control, You don't really need it on this size. There are 2 leads coming from it, One 3 pin for the CPU fan header and a 4 pin for the system fan header,

Corsair H60 Hydro (2018) - Reviews

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